City Style and Living - Winter 2008/2009 - (Page 25)

Chocolate may be the most misunderstood food on the market. Originating in Central and South America, Theobroma cacao once played an important role in Mayan and Aztec civilizations, where it was sometimes used as currency. It was brought to Europe in the mid-sixteenth century. There it was enjoyed as a beverage until it made its way into confectionery. Today, the process of making chocolate involves farmers, biologists, and chocolatiers often working on separate continents. “Unlike many other tropical crops, cacao remains close to its origins as a smallholder crop. Currently, cacao is grown on nearly five million small family farms in over 30 countries around the world,” says Bill Guyton, president of the World Cocoa Foundation, which is committed to improving the livelihood of cocoa farmers and promoting sustainable responsible cocoa growing practices. Cocoa had always been spoken of with a certain reverence in our family. According to our paternal grandmother, her father “would not buy any land unless there was cacao growing on it.” She lamented the shortsighted folly of her father for the land he would not buy is now some of the most expensive in the Caribbean. Our great grandfather’s reluctance though unprofitable was understandable. In the Caribbean, cacao had been a highly prized crop for generations. After it was brought to the islands by the Spanish directly from Mexico, it thrived in the humid climate. Trinitario cocoa from the Caribbean was sought worldwide for use in premium chocolate and to this day is considered one of the best varietals. In our family, cocoa was so entwined with daily life that the sliding wooden slats for drying the cocoa, protected by a galvanized roof, the cocoa house, was attached to our grandfather’s house. It was an unusual cocoa house because it was not in the countryside, but in the centre of a city. Over the years, the galvanize had turned reddish with wear and the “ He would not buy any land unless there was cocoa growing on it ” Opposite page clockwise from top left: a man dances the cocoa; holding cacao seeds encased in white pulp; a man dries cocoa on his cocoa house using a wooden paddle. This page: ripe cocoa is ablaze with colour; a cocoa hook amidst drying beans; split open ripe cacao is beautiful to see wood inside was a dark brown colour. The entranceway was so small we had to crouch to get through and inside was always sweltering. It looked like an attic, a place to daydream in the hot tropical air and as children, we would crawl into the cocoa house and play on summer visits. Fine chocolatiers around the world know cocoa must be carefully processed, following distinct steps to create fine chocolate. “Chocolate is only as good as the ingredients that go into making it. If the farmer is not dedicated to growing the very best cacao and then harvesting the very best cocoa beans, I am unable to make the very best chocolate – no matter how much skill I may bring to the table. It all starts at the farm,” says Art Pollard, owner, with his business partner Clark Goble, of Utah-based Amano Artisan Chocolate, a bean to bar chocolate house founded in 2006. He typifies the deep understanding that comes from working closely with farmers. It was not until we were older that our father explained the arduous work of cocoa. As the eldest of five boys, he would awaken early to go clear any brush that had grown up, tend the plants and twice a year pick the cocoa. The orange, yellow and red pods were taken off the plant by hand at just the right ripeness. A MATCH WELL MADE Sometimes you shouldn’t mess with a good thing- unless, that is, you can make it even better. Follow this simple guide to pairing your favourite chocolate with CSL’s suggestions. MINT Tasting Notes: crisp and fresh mint adds a contrast and warmth to dark chocolate Pairing: DARK (70%) Tasting Notes:aromatic notes ranging from blackberry and cherry to mocha Pairing: CITRUS Tasting Notes:: the zesty lively burst of orange explodes on the tongue. Pairing: CARAMEL Tasting Notes: a mellow sweetness is comforting on the pale e Pairing: COURTESY TERLATO WINES, Bailey’s Irish Cream Cointreau Josmeyer “Les Folestries” Gewurztraminer Alder Book “dry Creek Valley” Zinfandel

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of City Style and Living - Winter 2008/2009

City Style and Living - Winter 2008/2009 Contents Editor's Note Behind the Cover The District Events Wrap It Up To Market To Market Culinary Conversation Need It Want It Kitchen Restaurant Inspiration Dancing the Cocoa Covet Prêt-à-porter Inspired By... Giving Anatomy Of... Casanova Fragrance Profile Focal Pointe Passport 24 Hours In... The Staycation Ombudsperson Horoscopes Final Thought

City Style and Living - Winter 2008/2009

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