Big Picture - January/February 2018 - 7

THE LONG HAUL
Concern for the environment is another driver toward digitally,
domestically produced textiles. BF+DA is a self-described
"hub for ethical fashion and design;" its three main tenets are
zero waste, transparency, and humanity. Lilore says digital
printing "checks all of those boxes for us. It doesn't require
any water, and it's so precise that there just really isn't waste."

Harris says it was helpful at the BF+DA event to sit down
with designers and walk them through the production
process and share Solid Stone's priorities. "We don't use any
sort of product if we can't see how it's being manufactured
and whether it's environmentally sound," he adds. The
company, which runs transfer dye sub and direct-to-fabric
acid dye printers, recycles all the water from its washing
system to the printroom for washing sticky belts on the
direct-to-textile printers. "People are wanting to be able to
see a transparent process."
THE BEGINNING OF SOMETHING
"People no longer want to buy stock items," says Jacob Smith.
"They want everything customized." The ever-puzzling
question of how to make one-of-a-kind, customized goods
profitable on a large scale certainly persists, but it's clear that
speed, proximity, and respect for the planet will be components of the answer. And while inkjet machines are the tool in
a shop owner's belt, it's the people wielding the tools that
have the potential to truly make an impact on a market that's
looking for change.

BIGPICTURE.NET

CLOSE TO HOME
Lilore says designers "are looking for greater access to
proprietary prints, because it's a point of differentiation for
them." We all know that bespoke goods are the name of the
game these days, but it's that question of access that's
currently troubling the fashion world. It's not easy to go out
and buy a piece of high-tech equipment like a wide-format
printer - especially in cities like New York where real estate
is a luxury.
Jacob Smith attended the BF+DA event and had a realization: "Wow. We can be such a resource for these people."
The Smith family business has traditionally served the
hospitality and soft signage industries, and includes Something Different Linens, its digital production subsidiary Dye
Into Print (dyeintoprint.com), and an e-commerce platform,
doodle n' designs (doodlendesigns.com). Jacob Smith and his
brother Sam serve as sales and production managers for Dye
Into Print, and heads of operations and marketing, respectively,
for doodle n' designs.
Jacob Smith says, "As doors close and doors open, we've
been moving into the apparel world more and more." They've
produced projects from polyester jacket liners to material for
the winning entry in New York's Designow competition
(pictured). Dye Into Print runs four high-speed dye sub
printers ranging from 60 to 120 inches wide.
The issue of access stems from a long industry trend of
outsourcing textile production overseas, which, as a rule,
means long runs and long lead times. Sam Smith says their
operation is unique because not only are they delivering
products from nearby Clifton, New Jersey, as opposed to
China; they also don't require a minimum run. Designers can
easily have a few samples printed, and the Smiths are just a
15-minute drive away.
Luke Harris, VP of manufacturing, Solid Stone Fabrics
(solidstonefabrics.com), was present at the Brooklyn event, as
well. Solid Stone Fabrics serves a different clientele than Dye
Into Print, producing about 500,000 yards each year in stretch
fabrics for the activewear and swimwear markets, but Harris
echoes Sam Smith's thoughts on the value of producing
domestically. The company pulled its operations out of Asia in
2007 and began producing in Martinsville, Virginia. "That's
changed our process from an 8-to-12-week lead time into a
48-hour lead time," he says - and that's just the printing part.
"I don't understand how clients who are doing all of their
development and manufacturing in China can work with a
12-month lead time from concept to goods on shelf. You're
just missing trends if it's taking that long to manufacture."
Is outsourcing to Asia a little cheaper? Perhaps. In fact,
Harris says they lose clients to Asia all the time but that they
tend to come back the next or same season "in a mad rush."

http://www.dyeintoprint.com http://www.doodlendesigns.com http://www.solidstonefabrics.com http://www.BIGPICTURE.NET

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Big Picture - January/February 2018