Boat U.S. - January 2008 - (Page 41) From the Files of DIY Boat Owner Magazine varnish and they have enough stiffness to properly pull the varnish.” Ideally, you want to apply varnish 3 mils thick. Regardless of the tool you choose, you’ll need an assortment of sizes from 1” (25mm) to 4” (101mm). Apply varnish with firm pressure, moving the brush with the grain and feathering out the stroke. Use the tipping method, lightly stroking the surface with the brush held at a 45° angle, to remove any air bubbles. Good-quality bristle brushes are expensive. Keep one reserved for varnish only and before using, dry-clean the brush by flicking the bristles back and forth to remove dirt and other grime. After completing the job and cleaning the brushes, Theobalds advises storing them wet by suspending them in diesel fuel or kerosene. “Diesel is oily enough to keep bristles soft and keeps the brush clean,” he said. Before reusing, rinse the brush two or three times in solvent. Change the diesel bath once or twice a year. Photo by Billy Black on YNOT, a reworked 1950s Wilbur Storter runabout, the LeDonne family of Pittsburg, oH, used the Awlgrip System III Brightwork Finish. 50%, the second coat by 25% and the third by 15% and then applying successive coats at full strength. “Three thin coats seal the wood to give maximum penetration and good adhesion of subsequent coats,” explains Theobalds. “This achieves an effect similar to applying an oil-based sealer that is wet-sanded into the wood, a technique favored by purists for teak and other oily woods.” When varnishing bare teak, thin the first coat by 25%, progressively building to full strength. Always use thinners of the same brand as the varnish. Between each of the first three coats, dry-sand smooth with 150- to 220-grit paper, depending on the roughness of the surface. Vacuum all surfaces, wet the surrounding area again to reduce dust and then wipe the wood with a tack cloth. For the next three coats (build up at least eight coats for maximum UV protection), it’s not necessary to sand between coats unless it’s to remove obvious defects or too much time has elapsed between applications. After the second to last coat, sand with 220-grit paper and apply the final coat. Perfectionists may wait a day or two to let the varnish cure before sanding and then wait for the ideal weather conditions before applying the final coat, as humidity and temperature both affect a varnish’s cure. Some pros sand with 400-grit paper or a 3M Scotch-Brite pad between the two final coats. Since one-part and two-part urethanes vary in the application process, follow the manufacturer’s guidelines. Van Allen’s delivery method differs radically from conventional practice. “Too many people varnish like they’re painting a fingernail. When I varnish a rail, I get a mop, actually a 4” (10cm) brush, and apply it so thick the varnish drips off the rail,” explains Van Allen. His application method led to the invention of Railstar, a reusable frame assembly consisting of self-adhesive plastic hangers and a plastic or vinyl tray to catch all runoff material: scrapings, paint stripper and varnish (www.railstar. net). Maintenance Tricks Varnished wood doesn’t have to be high maintenance if you master these trade tricks. Regardless of the varnish you choose, apply the suggested number of coats to achieve an effective level of UV protection. How often a varnish needs recoating depends on latitude. Traditional and one-part varnishes normally need recoating annually in southern climates and every two to three years in northern regions. Two-part varnishes last four years or longer. Loss of gloss is the first hint that it’s time to recoat. The amount of time and effort expended in varnishing brightwork is rewarded by the beauty and durability of the final finish. Purchase a product you like, put on your favorite tunes, take your time and enjoy yourself. A well-maintained varnish job will last years. — By Jan Mundy Jan Mundy is the founder and editor of DIY. Each issue of DIY Boat Owner Magazine is filled with hands-on maintenance and repair features. To subscribe, see page 27. Brushes: Bristle Vs. Foam Best results are achieved using badger hair brushes or throwaway poly-foam brushes. Your tool of choice depends on what you are most comfortable using. Van Allen likes foam brushes on flat surfaces, applying varnish in his “thicker the better” method, but uses bristle brushes on detailed areas. Theobalds prefers quality natural bristle brushes. “Foam brushes are good for tipping the varnish but bristle brushes give you better control of the thickness of the applied DIY TIP: Cover UP If you’re really serious about your varnish regime, cover brightwork with acrylic canvas covers. By limiting Uv exposure, you extend recoating times. Photo by Jan Mundy BoatU.S. Magazine January 2008 41 http://www.railstar.net http://www.railstar.net
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