Boat U.S. - March 2008 - (Page 32)

Doing The CharlesTon Considered merely as a collection of factoids, Charleston’s past sounds pretty grim. In just the last century-and-a-half, South Carolina’s second-largest city has been on the receiving end of a four-year siege, the ensuing destruction of its social system, at least one major earthquake, multiple floods and an assortment of hurricanes. None of that seems to bother the Charlestonians, who have transformed this collection of historical lemons into a touristic lemonade that should appeal to many visitors, especially those who come by boat and/or have an advanced interest in our nation’s history. Much of the city’s history and present-day appeal derive from its being defined by the waters surrounding it. The locals call this stretch of coast “lowcountry,” and it certainly is, to the point that land and water virtually blend, and last year’s island may be this year’s shoal. The geography has resulted in a multiplicity of waterways, and the novice boater may have trouble telling through passages from dead ends, until (in the latter case) it becomes embarrassingly obvious. Rivers are often difficult to distinguish from each other, and landmarks become particularly important for the casual navigator. (In this connection, the most outstanding eye-catcher is the brand-new Ravenel Bridge, which is visible from everywhere as it leaps the Cooper River in a single futur32 istic bound.) Originally named Charles Towne, after King Charles II of England, Charleston was one of the most accessible and successful ports in pre-colonial and colonial America. It still is, only more so, thanks to container shipping, in which Charleston ranks fourth in the United States, and to the Intracoastal Waterway, which allows pleasure craft to arrive here from north or south without making a coastwise passage. The Intracoastal has suffered in recent years from a virtual absence of maintenance, but South Carolina is scheduled to receive about $2.2 million for dredging in fiscal 2008 — a drop in the bucket, so to speak, but one that should help mariners passing through. To be on the safe side before you head out, though, check the web (BoatUS.com/cruising/TomNeale/alert.asp) for recent problems on the Waterway. The heart of the city is the couple of square miles at the end of a finger-shaped peninsula, between the Cooper and Ashley rivers. This is Historic Charleston, and many of its best attractions are within walking distance of each other. Parking on the narrow, old streets isn’t easy to find, and the meters are voracious. If you do arrive on your own wheels, drop your car in one of the several municipal garages and reclaim it at the end of the day. For my money — $18, if you’re wondering — the best way to see the district is on foot, led by one of the witty, vastly informed guides of Charleston Strolls (843766-2080). Their two-hour tour concentrates on historic architecture, of which the city has about three centuries’ worth. The many churches are particularly striking, but you’ll find the residential buildings just as noteworthy, particularly the local phenomenon known as the Charleston single house. A single house is two or more stories high but only one room wide, and it’s set endwise to the street. A roofed and columned porch runs along the southwest side, with the street door at the porch’s end and the main house door someplace in the center. Odd as it sounds, it’s a very practical design for catching the prevailing southwest breeze and keeping the place bearable in summer. And once you get used to the unfinished appearance, it’s quite attractive. Don’t, however, get any rash ideas about buying one of these places. Though (or maybe because) they’ve been around for a century or two, homes in the Historic District will run you well over a million-and-a-half. Along Battery Row, overlooking the harbor, are some of the city’s most impressive mansions, several of which have been turned into stunning bed-and-breakfasts. Another local adaptation to the hot, damp Charleston summers is the use of stucco over the brick construction of some larger homes. After the tour, be sure to hit the row of four shedlike buildings that comprise the Old City Market. Hundreds of stalls with BoatU.S. Magazine March 2008 http://www.BoatUS.com/cruising/TomNeale/alert.asp

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of Boat U.S. - March 2008

Boat U.S. - March 2008 Contents Behind the Buoy BoatU.S. Reports Member Forum Cap'n Drew Sailing the Sidewalk Aviators Ahoy Docking and Duffing Waterfront Living: Charleston Waterfront Marketplace Grady Right 2nd Time Around DIY: Keeping the Water Out Hot Tips Boat Smart Ask Chuck Foundation Findings Tangled Line At Your Service Good Foundations BoatU.S. Exchange Behind the Boat Where Our Flags Fly

Boat U.S. - March 2008

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