Broughton Quarterly - Spring 2009 - (Page 18) food + drink WORD ON THE STREET Great food doesn’t necessarily mean fine dining. At some of the best eateries in Broughton territory, travelers discover the flavor of a place in unexpected locations where casual is key. lame it on the food cognoscenti. Ever since Andrew zimmern let the cuy out of the bag and started raving about dishes like spit-roasted guinea pig, lowbrow has been the flavor-of-the-month. When Julia Child decreed a locals’ favorite hole-in-the-wall “the best restaurant in Santa Barbara,” the line (which already snaked around the block) promptly doubled. Only now there were as many suits and ties as sneakers and work boots. And they’re still there, years after Child’s culinary expose—downtown yuppies, uptown families, tourists from Prague—all waiting patiently on one of the city’s least glamorous streets to order from a chalkboard menu. Yes, it’s hard to get a table at your neighborhood hole-in-the-wall these days. And that’s okay. After all, hotel cafes and fine dining restaurants only tell half the story. Whether you’re at a roadside chaat stand in Rajasthan or strolling in Santa Monica, you’re likely to find the truer flavor of a place in its casual restaurants: places the locals go. Not to see and be seen, but simply to eat. – Matt Katz SANTA BARBARA La Super Rica Taqueria Who would believe that a humble shack on Santa Barbara’s east side would house one of the city’s most celebrated restaurants? To be sure, La Super Rica is a funky little joint, with a flapping tarp for a roof and a parking lot the size of a stamp. Yet if, heaven forbid, it were ever dolled up, the American Riviera would likely spin into revolt. This is a beloved place, where millionaires get in line behind masons, where foodies take flavor notes while hung over students get their grease on. Put aside all your preconceptions about Mexican food; instead of nachos or burritos (you won’t find either on the menu), think chorizo and cheese, stuffed pasilla chiles with spicy pork, and corn tortillas lovingly pounded out by local señoras. Yes, it’s 18 broughton Quarterly SPRInG 2009 overcrowded and unkempt. It’s cashonly and produces enough Styrofoam to make Al Gore give up hope. None of which matters after the first bite. 622 N. Milpas St., Santa Barbara, CA, 805.963.4940 REDDING Jack’s Grill In 1938, a World War I flying ace named Jack Young opened a bar and grill on California Street in Redding. At the time, it was a boomtown filled with men who had come to work on the railroads and the construction of Shasta Dam. This was the real Old West, and California Street was a notorious strip of bars, hotels, restaurants, and houses of prostitution (including the upstairs of Jack’s Grill for a brief time). of all the places that sprang up during that era, B SANTA MONICA The Counter (above photo) Customers build over 312,000 (not a typo) different burger combinations at this Santa Monica original. From the industrial décor to the cranking modern music, The Counter puts a 21st century spin on the classic burger joint. And talk about the true flavor of a place: where else but Santa Monica are you going to find a Chardonnay-sipping model nibbling a turkey burger in a bowl (“hold the bun, please”) while at the next table skate rats devour old school burgers smothered in Tillamook cheddar. 2901 Ocean Park Blvd., Santa Monica, CA, 310.399.8383, TheCounterBurger.com. Thai food enjoyed almost exclusively by spice-loving locals. 2249 N. Palm Canyon Dr., Palm Springs, CA, 750.320.8385. CHICAGO Half Shell If you’re not looking for it, you’re not likely to stumble upon Half Shell. Located below street level in Lakeview, the cash-only seafood lair is one of Chicago’s best places to slurp down blue point oysters, crack king crab, and consume copious amounts of cold beer. It’s small and dark, a true hole-in-wall with a casual vibe and a reputation built by word of mouth. When you’ve had your fill of deep-dish pizza, dive into a plate of frog legs or dressed smelt. Hearty portions, great food, and reasonable prices have made Half Shell a locals’ favorite. The basement location keeps the mystery alive. 676 W. Diversey Pwy., Chicago, IL, 773.549.1773, HalfShellChicago.com. Jack’s is the only one to survive. But while the retro atmosphere is one of its draws, the main reason people come to Jack’s is for steak. Nothing fancy. Just sizzling beef served with garlic bread, baked potato or fries, and a tossed green salad. Locally owned from the beginning, the restaurant has justifiably become a Redding institution. 1743 California St., Redding, CA, 530.241.9705, JacksGrillRedding.com. PALM SPRINGS Seng Dao Thai Restaurant A few fortunate tourists might wander into this family-run Thai restaurant on the edge of Palm Springs. But most just pass by on their way to the hotel or golf course. Unless you’re in the know, you’re not likely to stop and even less likely to backtrack. So the passersby do just that—and pass by again on their way home, never knowing they just missed one of the best dining experiences in the area: skillfully prepared, authentic http://www.TheCounterBurger.com http://www.JacksGrillRedding.com http://www.HalfShellChicago.com
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