CITY Issue 51

Need a few reasons to finally ski Europe this winter? How’s this: The scale of the mountains surrounding the Chamonix valley is beyond belief, otherworldly, astonishing. The iconic saw-toothed peak of Mont Blanc towers over the Vallée Blanche and its serac-studded glacier, while the Montenvers Train chugs up a sheer cliffside above the ice caves of the Mer de Glace. The Alps lean into the valley, sharp-edged and ancient, while the pulse of Alpine history beats within the narrow streets and bustling cafés. Bags packed yet? Chamonix offers every kind of ski run imaginable—and some beyond anything North American–bred skiers can dream up. A ski trip here is a return to the roots of mountaineering, something every high-altitude adrenaline junkie owes himself at least once in his lifetime. Here’s how to do it: Getting there Fly Continental to Geneva, then rent a car or take the SAT bus into the valley. Where to stay Charming, low-key B&B’s are plentiful, as are (relatively) high-end hotels. This isn’t Gstaad or St. Moritz, though—glitz is kept to a minimum. Hôtel MontBlanc (62 allee Majestic, 33-4 5053-4128) is a mid-town Alpine classic, while The Clubhouse (74 promenade des Sonnailles, 33-4 5090-9656, www. clubhouse.fr) is an intimate, modern hotel run by the owners of New York and London’s Milk and Honey, and naturally houses its own great bar. Get a guide Don’t even consider skiing without a guide. Almost nothing worthwhile is marked and controlled in the standard North American way, and venturing into the off-piste chutes, glaciers, and bowls without guidance will likely end in frustration or severe injury. Evolution 2 (www.evolution2.com) guides are among the best. What to ski Guide in tow, head via cable car to the 12,601-foot top of the Aiguille du Midi, tip-toe across a vertiginous ridge, and then begin your 13-mile (!) glacierskiing descent through the Vallée Blanche and Mer de Glace to the valley floor. For the ultimate challenge, drop into the aptly-named Pas de Chèvre (Goat’s Path) off Les Grands Montets cable car. Intermediates should find plenty of excellent terrain in the La Flégère and Le Brévent areas. Where to eat Raclette—melted cheese over ham and potatoes—and fondue are the ubiquitous local specialties. Double Michelin–starred Restaurant Albert 1er (119 impasse du Montenvers, 33-4 5053-0509) offers a refined take on French mountain cuisine, while Restaurant L’Impossible (9 chemin du Cry, 33-4 5053-5891) provides a traditional—and delicious—farmhouse dining experience. Snack on the terrace at Brasserie L’M (81 rue Joseph Vallot, 33-4 5053-0011) and or go Italian at La Dolce Vita (78 rue Lyret, 33-4 5053-9129). Where to drink Après-ski at Micro Brasserie de Chamonix (a.k.a. MBC) (350 route de Bouchet, 33-4 5053-6159), a Canadian-run microbrewery, or Chambre Neuf (272 avenue Michel Croz, 33-4 5055-8981), a perennial Scandinavian-centric favorite. Throw on a sport-jacket and spin the roulette wheel at the Casino de Chamonix (12 place de Saussure, 33-4 5053-0765). Just don’t forget to get back on the slopes the next day. CITY 67 http://www.clubhouse.fr http://www.clubhouse.fr http://www.evolution2.com

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of CITY Issue 51

Contents Letter from CITY Our Friends Action Wanted City Moment The City Life Fast Food Fit Field Trip The Suite Life Paint the Town Red Fresh Tracks After the Sunset One City, Many Destinations The Winning Photographer The Entries By the Numbers The Finalists Expert Opinion Amateur Hour Meet the Finalists Nowhere Man Dune Raiders Just Go Where To Buy It Socials Icon

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