CITY Issue 54

Living the Good Life in the Big City SIX (SORT OF) AFFORDABLE SPIRITS e 3 , ks d as d l e as 0 0 c as an te us h e re bly ar and for d b l e l ds i c i o . g t i n 2 o n e at i t . t ns st ar l il a i t en ia re r b s p fr u p- go, 973 an va ) y de ara ye f s t tie u e c en h m s a 20s gly acc ach k- nti bo rrie s o t r un d ju r s a m 1 r i c k s s e s. os is e) ea ro lly c a q u a 9 9 3 t m a ot e oc 18 in B ns t l e r or st he nn 00 res l n is i 1 am l y k f f u e m is ur ot ta av g t h m a l of k s , e d a c as t , s t u l y 1 s h o th ), th e f vera toc der i n c h of b n e c t e f l ( d ” n y g rk s or n s s. a l, i n s m i x c a s n e se s d a es og ck plex . On our -a m s e g h wo o fu er -d i ti tle t s s t Pa e r u e c o l t c ba d it -a sed e. A err y y, h ow ller y ou on, g. nt b o t g e - in e li v be nd mb er-h ho es far com orl s h e ni n h tt u a 0 on . og e a f B ti ld s t w er h e l a nu b r k c ng r-d g (o dis st e dit t tlin “O rel y go o s nu y q 9 0 rb f t i gh all ma e o (a os e nt r a ve t a a n c t d ju d - e b o t h s s y e m in t h c a t in e d b o u e d as ar l r f in i t h , o y o r ic e e o s , H s m h, a y d wn c yap te c in e l d s w e of ne th s l de my ic ic y ic c E f u r e i at i d d un y w n l d e e i a f so ke nl is r sp ac t a sp d w e M d e o ve l i m m tl e y y d en en o no isk is o o k i s qu i o r t h i t h hi s u t o f t h i t h b l t H n e o gn r y s m t hi s r e c t hi s ar o ot o n l g o o r o w h an d an d s m P Ji B f oc w C T h li Wwoo Aa Highland Park 30-Year Old Single Malt Scotch, $360 Richard Hennessy Cognac, $2,000 Ardbeg Uigeadail Single Malt Scotch, $110 Bruichladdich 1973 Islay Single Malt Scotch $300 Pappy Van Winkle’s Family Reserve 23-Year-Old Bourbon, $250 Macallan 18-Year Old Single Malt Scotch, $170 mind-splitting $200,000. The backbone of the blend dates from 1907, and while one can imagine it is indeed delicious, the package steals the show: contemporary artist Jean-Michel Othoniel’s turn-of-the-century inspired, jewel-encrusted silver treasure chest (photo at opposite). One sold last fall at Art Basel in Miami to the “founder of a very important chain of retail stores,” according to a company spokesperson. While I didn’t taste the cognac, I did gaze at the package. Nothing about it is subtle, but where’s the fun in dropping $200,000 on a bottle of booze if no one notices? When it comes to weighing packaging versus product, buyers need to do their homework, says Goldstein. “Consumers should be aware of what they are getting. Is it fancy package, or a very rare, very high-quality spirit? In many cases, it is both.” Goldstein believes the Macallan Lalique decanter justifies its price tag. “A 55-year old whisky is incredibly hard to come by and you can’t go wrong with these two luxury brands coming together. For investment purposes it will go up in value.” It sounds absurd to call this a prudent investment, since nothing about a $12,000 bottle of fermented grain seems in any way reasonable, but compare it to fine wine and it starts to seem safe. “Unlike wines, which are frequently damaged or corked and then must be consumed the night they are opened, these whiskies can be enjoyed for years. And we don’t see a lot of bottle damage; they are more shelf-stable, shall we say,” says Brierley. As prices inch up across the spectrum, even humbler spirits are benefitting. Irish whisky isn’t something most people would expect to pay a king’s ransom for, but Jameson hopes to make you reconsider with their limited- edition “Rarest Vintage Reserve,” an ultra-smooth blend of the oldest Jameson’s stock aged in port casks for $250. Tequila has undeniably come a long way from its spring break–shooter past, but Patrón tests its upper limits with Gran Patrón Platinum, a silver tequila in a substantial crystal decanter for $200. It’s not old, it’s not aged in wood, and it’s not exactly scarce (the company sold 20,000 cases last year), which makes its prize tag puzzling. It did so well, the company released the Gran Patrón Burdeos, an anejo tequila aged in Bordeaux casks for $500, and sold out of that, too. But beware, says Goldstein: “A lot of the tequila market is turning toward fancy packages, special aging statements about wine or oak casks and single vineyard agave, but it will be a while before people are aware of what’s a gimmick and what’s not.” For investment purposes, as well as maximum drinking pleasure, Goldstein recommends Highland Park—“the older ones just keep getting better”—and Brierley insists Macallan’s offerings will only increase in value. Stick to things that are rare and small production, and consider some of the more esoteric offerings entering the scene: “Wonderful values lie in things like Chartreuse, which were reaching $200–$300 a few years ago and are now hitting a few thousand. Some of the older American whiskies are also becoming collectibles. Any spirit with a historical connection will go up in value.” Like the recent wine scandals—where forged bottles were sold as old and rare—fraud happens in the high-end spirits world as well, particularly with Scotch. “If you’re buying overseas, or if a deal seems too good to be true, you really need to examine the label,” warns Goldstein. That is, after you’ve recovered from price-tag sticker shock. CITY 45

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of CITY Issue 54

CITY Issue 54 Contents Letter from CITY Our Friends Action Wanted City Moment The City Life The Amused Bouche On the Rocks Fast Food City Insider: Austin Fit How We Live: The Bedroom City Insider: Warsaw In Rogue The Value of Vintage Taking the Plunge Raising the Bar The Science of Scent Changing of the Guard The New Fashion Cities A Cut Above Chrysalis What Dreams May Come Dawn & Dusk Will o' the Wisp Where To Buy It Socials Icon

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