CITY Issue 54

Living the Good Life in the Big City FAST FOOD SWEET POTATO DUMPLINGS INGREDIENTS 1 c. sweet potato, peeled, cut into 1" cubes 2 tbs. olive oil 1 tsp. salt 1 tbs. garlic, peeled, sliced ¼" thick ¼ tsp. chili flakes 3 tbs. crème fraîche Yellow wonton skins Egg yolk Preheat oven to 325º. Combine all but last three ingredients in a bowl and toss well to coat. Spread onto a baking tray and cook until sweet potato is completely tender and slightly caramelized. Let cool at room temperature. Put everything from the sheet tray into a food processor and add the crème fraîche. Process until homogenized but still slightly chunky. Use fresh wonton skins and fold into desired shape using egg yolk to seal; make sure they are completely stuffed. Poach dumplings in simmering water until they float; drain well and arrange on plate lightly brushed with olive oil. Hot and Steamy Fresh off another inspiring trip to Asia, CITY’s Jean-Georges Vongerichten dips into a trio of darling dumplings. POP A DELICIOUS DUMPLING IN YOUR MOUTH AT THE BEGIN- ning of a meal, and you know you’re off to a good start. The key to a wellmade dumpling is that the steam produced inside contains all the aroma and flavors, so when the wrapper is popped they are released suddenly, intensely, and directly to the palate (rather than thin air). The chewy texture of the wrapper also causes more mashing, releasing even more flavor and aroma. Each of these dumplings was inspired by a recent culinary journey to Asia. In a Cantonese restaurant in Hong Kong, a steamed-mushroom dish was so simple but had such clarity, and was so savory but also so fragrant, my first thought was to seal up that experience into a dumpling. Here, a variety of just-cooked juicy mushrooms are flavored with a little butter, soy, wine, and herbs that just explode in the mouth. The sweet potato dumplings were inspired by a preparation I had at a Tokyo yakitori restaurant; the sweetness of the grilled sweet potato was tempered by chili and rounded out with a sweet garlic paste. In a dumpling, these flavors are surprising and addictive. The shrimp dumplings are designed to show off the natural sweetness and brininess of the shrimp. A little ginger, chili, and Chinese wine make these so succulent and fresh it’s like eating a whole shrimp, only better. Don’t forget the grapefruit dipping sauce, which is sour, salty, spicy, and nutty—the perfect foil to all three dumplings for different reasons. The nuttiness brings out the mushrooms’ earthiness, while the acid accentuates the butter. The sourness balances the sweetness of the sweet potato, while the spicy reinforces the heat from the chili flakes. And the sauce’s overall complexity adds dimension and vibrancy to the shrimp, making each bite a revelation. MUSHROOM DUMPLINGS INGREDIENTS 2 tbs. shaoxing wine 2 tsp. soy sauce ½ tsp. roasted sesame oil ¼ c. butter 4 tbs. shallots, minced 1 tbs. garlic, minced ½ green thai chili, minced 1 c. shitake, stem removed, cut ½" wide, ¼" thick 1 c. oyster mushrooms, cut in ½" pieces 1 tbs. fresh dill, chopped Salt and white pepper to taste Yellow wonton skins Egg yolk Combine shaoxing, soy, and sesame oil. In a large sauté pan combine butter, shallots, garlic, and thai chili and cook until shallots are soft and fragrant. Add all the mushrooms and the liquids, and cook over high heat, stirring with a rubber spatula, until tender and glazed, but not at all wet. Stir in the dill and season with salt and pepper. Use fresh wonton skins and fold into desired shape using egg yolk to seal; make sure they are completely stuffed. Poach dumplings in simmering water until they float; drain well and arrange on plate lightly brushed with olive oil. SHRIMP DUMPLINGS INGREDIENTS 1 c. 16/20 (extra large) fresh shrimp, peeled, deveined, cut into quarters 1 tbs. shaoxing wine ½ red thai chili, minced 1 tbs. young ginger, minced 1 tsp. cornstarch Salt to taste Yellow wonton skins Egg yolk Combine all but wonton skins and egg yolk in a bowl. Mix well. Use fresh wonton skins and fold into desired shape using egg yolk to seal; make sure they are completely stuffed. Poach dumplings in simmering water until they float; drain well and arrange on plate lightly brushed with olive oil. SOY-GRAPEFRUIT DIPPING SAUCE INGREDIENTS ½ c. light soy ½ c. Japanese rice vinegar ½ c. fresh pink grapefruit juice 2 tbs. roasted peanut oil 1 tbs. roasted sesame oil 4 tbs. finely chopped ginger Mix well. PHOTO GRAPHY BY W I L L I A M B RI NS ON CITY 47

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of CITY Issue 54

CITY Issue 54 Contents Letter from CITY Our Friends Action Wanted City Moment The City Life The Amused Bouche On the Rocks Fast Food City Insider: Austin Fit How We Live: The Bedroom City Insider: Warsaw In Rogue The Value of Vintage Taking the Plunge Raising the Bar The Science of Scent Changing of the Guard The New Fashion Cities A Cut Above Chrysalis What Dreams May Come Dawn & Dusk Will o' the Wisp Where To Buy It Socials Icon

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