CITY Issue 56

FASHION WELCOME TO THE BOYS’ CLUB Following in the footsteps of Thom Browne, a new generation of menswear designers is giving classic apparel a contemporary twist. Roger Joseph reports on the bold new colors, cuts, and craftsmanship. ROBERT GELLER C MARK FOX all it the Thom Browne eﬀect. In the last seve al yea s, the me ican fashion indust y has seen its anks multiply with a new spate of menswea designe s, a mostly male c ew oﬀe ing thei b eth en eithe spo tswea c a ed with the ease and adaptability of denim o bespoke tailo ing that ests on, though is not beholden to, the t aditions of Savile Row. ou can blame — o athe thank — M . B owne, who a ived on the scene in with his business class atti e and almost immediately shi ed the menswea landscape. Just ask Tom Kalende ian, executive vice p esident of menswea at Ba neys New o k. “The fact that one can hea , ‘That is ve y Thom B owne,’ in the sho t time that he has built his business is ema kable,” Kalende ian says, c editing the CFD awa d winne fo holding his g ound as an me ican designe who still actually p oduces on me ican soil. With thei own eputations on the ise, the young menswea designe s who have followed B owne into the pool a e p oducing bold designs backed by equally st ong points of view. Designe Patrik Ervell, a New o ke of Swedish ext action who has eceived acclaim fo his nimble Scandinavian eading of me icana and p oduces his handmade suits in B ooklyn, states simply, “I think M DE IN IT L is inc edibly ove ated.” With the sudden inﬂux of new names, app aising the cu ent c op is a delicate affai . “We have to be ext emely c itical edito s, cate ing exclusively to what the custome needs,” Kalende ian says. “But one is excited about those with the cou age to sta t a business and the level of ﬁt, quality, and c a smanship to which they al eady aspi e.” Whethe thei clothes a e made f om me ican cloth on me ican soil is not the binding point, but athe how each designe composes his own handiwo k within the conﬁnes of menswea while add essing this count y’s histo y of spo tswea and tailo ing. “I am fascinated with me ican spo tswea and what that means o could mean,” says Steven Cox, the English half of New o k– based Duckie Brown. The wo k that Cox and his me ican pa tne , Daniel Silve , put fo th is athe classic, but thei knowledge and skill gives them license to subve t the gen e. By supe imposing luxe fab ics in ﬁ lm-noi colo s on a “long and lean” silhouette, Fall ’s confident efinement of thei p evious wo k, highlighting thei now signatu e play with p opo tion, is su e to conve t mo e than a few. Though the duo may have ga ne ed some noto iety fo thei mo e witty econﬁgu ations of menswea staples — a handmade lace c ewneck o a collectible gold-beaded hoodie, fo example — the company is gaining g ound fo its poised, hand-ﬁ nished tailo ing. In Fall , a wide audience will be able to app eciate the joy Duckie B own elicits between the t aditional and the subve sive when a co-b anded (with Flo sheim) shoe collection debuts. SALVOR PROJECTS 46 CITY TY

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of CITY Issue 56

City Issue 56 Contents Letter from City: Re: Design Our Friends: The Faces Behind the Stories Action: What's New, What's Hot, What's Now Wanted: Olympic Bound? Button Up City Moment: The Writing’s on the Wall How We Live: Concrete Jungle Fast Food: Bites of Spring The Amused Bouche: Blueprint Special In Rouge: Hero Worship Fashion: Welcome to the Boys’ Club Travel: My Pod Architecture: Out of the Blue Design: Home Remedies Tokyo Rising Zen and the Art of Catholicism Think Big Face Value Runaways Intimate Relations Where to Buy It: Store Locations Icon: The Infinity Pool

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