CITY Issue 56

D essed in scuﬀed Conve ses and a st iped tuxedo shi t (his own), Robert Geller, meanwhile, looks like a well-appointed a t school g aduate. (In fact, he studied fashion design at RISD.) When asked whe e his appa el is sold, he p ofesses, “Canada is huge fo us!” befo e eeling oﬀ, with some inc edulity, the othe count ies in which his namesake collection has taken hold — a testament to both the inte est ab oad in me ican style and the g owing st ength of his output. Despite his aﬀable natu e, and his impending wedding, Gelle ’s Fall designs seem made fo the int ospective u ban poet/ ocke , a spi itual soul mate to Patti Smith. It’s ha dly su p ising: Gelle is candid in his p aise fo ntwe p-based designe nn Demeulemeeste , who continually efe ences the iconic singe /songw ite . et his wo k is not a edux of a design school he o, but a ﬁ nely calib ated explo ation of what men want f om thei wa d obe. Reﬂexively ca essing the cool lichen g een of a lambskin bombe , Gelle adds, “This is menswea to me. Finding beautiful mate ials and then giving each piece a sense of pu pose.” Some designe s have taken a mo e mave ick app oach in thei collections. me ican menswea “has such a st ong point of view at this moment,” says lonzo Este , a stylist, consultant, and co-owne of Hollywood T ading Company. “It’s ve y inspi ing; it invites many diﬀe ent types, styles, and tastes to join the pa ty.” nothe espected etaile w yly dubs the explosive activity in men’s fashion “the ouTube-iﬁcation of Seventh venue.” Howeve you spin it, this new app oach continues to gain t action. “I like colo ; in masculine shapes, it’s ha d to ﬁ nd,” says designe Victor Glemaud, who ea lie in his ca ee handled media elations fo Ve sace, lexande Mc ueen, and Ma c Jacobs (as an ope ative fo PR ﬁ m KCD), and whose clean spo tswea is t ansﬁgu ed by a fantastic use of colo . “When I am designing, I see the ﬁ nished look. But — ” he adds, his tall f ame almost disappointingly d essed in navy, “it’s "WHEN I AM DESIGNING, I SEE a look. I want to make su e each piece is something THE FINISHED LOOK.BUT, IT'S men can buy and elate to.” Ross enuez’s “System” is a collection of “ﬁve A LOOK. I WANT TO MAKE SURE easy pieces” anging f om a wo k shi t to a pa ka EACH PIECE IS SOMETHING MEN shell, all of which can be wo n togethe o inte CAN BUY AND RELATE TO." changeably. The Manhattan-based mind behind Salvo P ojects impa ts each piece with elements of —VICTOR GLEMAUD his va ied expe iences in multiple disciplines, f om building houses fo the Sandinistas in Nica agua to wo king in London unde the guidance of design gu u Tom Dixon du ing the latte ’s successful tu n at Habitat. Via a tful application of p intmaking techniques, Menuez imbues his clothing and accesso ies with dimensions that t ick and engage the eye; his silksc eens, some la ge scale like the G St asbou g p otest p int on a je sey sca f, have become hallma ks of Salvo ’s line. In the cou se of an eﬀusive exchange that connects Ilse C awfo d (a mi o of he design emains in his studio) to Miss Blanche (an iconic chai by Shi o Ku amata), Menuez admits with a laugh that he needs “less muses” and “mo e custome s.” One hopes his impending collabo ation with The No th Face will delive both. c oss the count y, anyone familia with the cultu al topog aphy of Melose venue in the ea ly ’ s will ecall ark Fox, a p escient pu veyo of high-end vintage in Los ngeles, who’s b inging his own inﬂuences onto his sketchpad. “My g andfathe had his own studio downtown fo ove yea s,” Fox says. “He made custom suits fo Nat King Cole, Bu t Lancaste , Bugsy Siegel, and Suga Ray Robinson. I used to hang out the e du ing summe vacation and watch him wo k.” These twin expe iences info m Fox’s debut collection of ock ’n’ oll tailo ing, launching at Maxﬁeld this sp ing. “When expanding one’s vocabula y, it’s about lea ning the etymology of a wo d, not just its deﬁ nition. I look at clothing design the same way,” Fox says. Something makes us think Thom B owne would wholehea tedly ag ee. PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALEX NORDEN / STYLING BY JULIE BOBECK VICTOR GLEMAUD DUCKIE BROWN MODEL: NIKITA AT RED MODELS. SHOES BY JUMP FOR THE PEOPLE. PATRICK ERVELL CITY TY 47

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of CITY Issue 56

City Issue 56 Contents Letter from City: Re: Design Our Friends: The Faces Behind the Stories Action: What's New, What's Hot, What's Now Wanted: Olympic Bound? Button Up City Moment: The Writing’s on the Wall How We Live: Concrete Jungle Fast Food: Bites of Spring The Amused Bouche: Blueprint Special In Rouge: Hero Worship Fashion: Welcome to the Boys’ Club Travel: My Pod Architecture: Out of the Blue Design: Home Remedies Tokyo Rising Zen and the Art of Catholicism Think Big Face Value Runaways Intimate Relations Where to Buy It: Store Locations Icon: The Infinity Pool

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