CITY Issue 59

ARGENTINA GOOD AIRS Buenos Aires is at its indie best in Palermo, the city’s chic and laid-back burgeoning downtown neighborhood. By Pavia Rosati B uenos ires was smoking. Lite ally. The ai plane’s f ont wheels had yet to touch down when my f iend Rett passed me his Blackbe y. “ gentine fa me s bu n fields in p otest; Buenos i es ai po ts close,” CNN was epo ting. I lifted the window shade and saw nothing but haze. If the e was a te minal on the ho izon, it was hiding. But we made it. fte clea ing customs, we lea ned that ou s was one of only fou flights that landed that mo ning in the middle of the smoky up ising that was suppo ted by eve y local we met. It was an auspicious welcome. s fo the bad ai in “buenos ai es,” we decided that was i onic. Fo a ce tain kind of t avele , Buenos i es is no longe an if but athe a when. It’s no longe news that the city is vib ant, beautiful, cool, and constantly pa tying, no is the fact that the economy has ebounded and now att acts ent ep eneu ial types f om San F ancisco, New o k, and London. The dolla may not have the powe against the peso that it used to have, but me icans can still live highe on the hog (o , mo e accu ately pe gentine menus, the cow) than they can in most othe places a ound the wo ld. Still, the ﬂ ight is inte minable. If you’ e looking at a long weekend, Pa is and London—at least fo 74 CITY TY East Coaste s — a e so much easie . Howeve , while it may take longe to get to Buenos i es than it does to Eu ope, by staying on the same-ish time zone (B. . is one hou ahead of N C) you get no jet lag. We — the fou f iends I was t aveling with — landed and we e good to go. Ou destination: Pale mo, the bu geoning, cool neighbo hood no thwest of the city. Buenos i es is immense, full of vast, Pa isianstyle bouleva ds and -lane, t aﬃc-clogged highways. mong the most stylish neighbo hoods, Recoleta is home to expensive shopping that many tou ists a e d awn to. nd Pue to Made o is the eme ging po t dist ict with the cold and ove ated Philippe Sta ck Faena Hotel. But Pale mo, which is comp ised of the subdivisions Pale mo Viejo, Pale mo Soho, and Pale mo Hollywood, is t ee-lined, intimate, and walkable, ﬁ lled with cafes and ba s, shops and atelie s, estau ants and boutique hotels. The a chitectu e is ambitious and expe imental; the inte io design is edgy and funky. thick laye of smoke was blanketing the city, making it somewhat ha d to b eathe and see, but it didn’t stop us f om linge ing at seve al sidewalk cafes to sip o ange juice, too-st ong coﬀees, and a few bottles of Malbec. Pale mo delive s on the myth of cool downtown, with the kind of social ene gy t avele s expect to ﬁ nd in global capitals but so a ely do.

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of CITY Issue 59

CITY Issue 59 Contents Have You Heard? Our Friends Action Wanted City Moment Diary Temporary Contemporary In Rogue The Amused Bouche Fast Food Tara Subkoff Alvarourbano Hardy Blachman Javier Peres Cult Classic Dream Jewels London Calling Argentina Good Airs Mission from God Your Place, and Mine One City, Many Destinations I'm Good, I'm Gone. 7 Hour Overdrive Where to Buy It Cityscape

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