CITY - Issue 61 - (Page 47)

the textile fo Schiap’s “Tea ” d ess, a bias cut sheath of bone silk c epe with seve al p inted tea s, which appea to be ipped down to expose a tende pink inte io . The design has been inte p eted in a numbe of ways: most commonly as a dissolve between ga ment and ﬂayed ﬂesh o an ee ie ha binge of the dest uctive wo ld wa soon to follow. These may seem d amatic inte p etations fo a p etty d ess, but Su ealism’s da k side has ea ed its head once again as we ﬂounde in a simila ly challenging e a. lexande Mc ueen walked gilded t ompe l’oeil emb oide ies à la Schiap, st angely ill-ﬁt as disposition-esque patte ns on la ge black silk ove coats. B uno Piete s peddled sh inking p opo tions with a mid iﬀ-skimming vest of black padded vinyl, mocking in its lack of p otective capability. These ga ments we e mo e funhouse mi o than ﬁ ne y, and ecall nothing if not the wa ped, delicious qualities of Dali’s melting clocks. K is Van ssche conceived an oddly fune a y p ocession of midnight looks on the blackened Dio Homme unway. The most imaginative ensemble einca nated Schiap’s “Metamo phosis” collection, which aﬃ xed a ainbow of butte ﬂies to hats, jackets, and d esses. et whe e “Metamo phosis” was kitsch and coy, Van ssche’s black wings, attached diagonally down a t im tuxedo jacket, oﬀe ed the imp ession of bats in ﬂ ight. The only glimme ing elements of the p esentation we e satin pipings and patent shoes, which did nothing if not dizzy the st ained eyes of onlooke s. The clothes we e less fo mal and mo e g otesque at Galliano, whe e a motley cast f om the latte Middle ges was plaste ed with ove -the-top maquillage in the fo ms of disﬁgu ed co pses and bubonic-plagued u chins. But the most mo bid elements, even in Technicolo , appea ed as confetti wo ms eating away at necklines and pockets. The he maph oditic squiggle s seemed t aced on, and mimicked the bas- elief quality of Su ealist Osca Dominguez’s p essed s decalcomies, even as they decomposed tatte ed black bespoke f ocks. familia t ope of su eal a t is to emove o displace the usual function o signiﬁcance of any pa ticula object, most famously demonst ated by Me et Oppenheim’s “Le Dejeune en Fou u e.” The c eation of this teacup and sauce of beige gazelle was p ompted by Picasso’s insistence that anything could be made of fu . Fall unway looks at both Maison Ma tin Ma giela and Moschino employed odd tactile bedfellows as well, the fo me with a “ba bed wi e” vest made of black knotted leathe laces laid ove a ba e chest. Moschino oﬀe ed a classic leathe jacket shape executed it in a so , knotty looped pile instead of the sleek leathe that has become the style’s signatu e PR ADA IMAGE COURTESY OF PR ADA , DIOR HOMME AND JOHN GALLIANO IMAGE PHOTOGR APHED BY PATRICE STABLE, VIKTOR & ROLF IMAGE PHOTOGR APHED BY PETER STIGTER. fo function and ﬁt. Vikto & Rolf have long given thei c eations alte nate functions, as gi s in la ge bow w appings o foundations with towe ing scaffolding. et the qui ky duo stuck to mo e t aditional Su eal st ategies with t ompe l’oeil fob watches and epeat-p inted vehicles of the T anspo tation ge; steam engines, ships and hot ai balloons seemed to give the clothing movement beyond the sway of the model’s swagge . Leave it to Miuccia to efe ence the fi st glimpses of the twentieth centu y Su ealism in ﬁ ne a t, as de ivatives of Dada libe ation but with mo e fantastical intentions. Many cite nd e Masson’s abst act ende ings as the ea ly s catalysts fo all things su eal, but Max E nst’s “The Hats Make the Man,” a canvas of p ima y colo s and tumbling bowle s f om the same pe iod seems a likelie template fo P ada’s off-kilte collection of deceptive nude body stockings, colo -block gi dles and stiﬀened duplicate colla s. Su ealism eve es the omnipotence of d eam, walking the line between subconscious compulsion and focused delusion. et as witty, fo eboding concoctions, autumn’s f ocks know exactly what they’ e doing: injecting a sense of playfulness and explo ation into menswea that’s long been a catwalk wallﬂowe . Dali once explained, “The e is only one diﬀe ence between a madman and me. I am not mad.” With clothes like these as the f uits of his innovations, it appea s he was ight. VIKTOR & ROLF PRADA MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of CITY - Issue 61

CITY - Issue 61 Contents Our Friends Action Wanted City Moment Luscious Life Fast Food Inrogue Temporary Contemporary Diary Savania Davies-Keller & Roberto Crivello Pamela Love Sung-Joo Kim Jerome Berard Destination Dealerships Overly Opulent Inside Out Like a Clock in the Heart Qatar’s Crown Jewel BLING Urge to Splurge Just a Splash Luxe Life Solitaire Equus Where to Buy It Cityscape

CITY - Issue 61

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