Clean Run Magazine - July 2007 - 14

unning Contacts, Part 2 By Ali Roukas-Canova, photos by Joe Canova Once you have analyzed the advantages and disadvantages of running contacts and decided this method will work well for you and your dog, you can begin training. There are three stages of teaching running contacts. The first two components, contact obstacles and the touch board, are taught simultaneously but separately, and then combined in the third stage, which will be covered in the third article of this series. Also remember that you can teach a running A-frame, for safety or speed, and still teach a stopped dogwalk for more control. Stage 1: Obstacle Training The first stage of training is to introduce the dog to the basic equipment. For puppies under six months, the obstacle training stops there. For older dogs, the second stage is to introduce the dogwalk and A-frame at very low heights. The goal throughout the obstacle introduction phase is to teach the dog to run with a fully extended stride across the entire obstacle. You should not look for any form of collection or specific behavior at the bottom of the board. Introduce the Plank For this exercise, lay the middle dogwalk plank (no slats) on the ground. Sitting or kneeling on the ground next to the plank, have your dog step on, walk horizontally across, and turn around on the plank. Reward frequently and be patient while your dog figures out how to get all four feet on a 12"wide board. Once he is stepping on the board, stand up and guide him along the board. It is not necessary to start from the end of the plank. You can guide him onto the plank at an angle. Reward with a treat from the inside hand whenever the dog has four feet on the board, but always reward while the dog is in motion. During the introduction, your goal is to get your dog moving confidently with balance down the entire plank, while stepping on and exiting straight. Particularly for puppies, you are also letting your dog practice controlling his feet, especially the rear. Introduce the Hoop For this exercise, you need a PVC hoop. I usually size the hoop to about 4" to 6" above the dog’s shoulder height. A hoop at the bottom of the dogwalk and A-frame encourages dogs to move straight off the obstacle and also discourages dogs from jumping off the side.The hoop simply guides the dog; you are not attempting to train an actual behavior with a hoop. It is a prop that is there to ensure a higher percentage of correct attempts. Place the hoop on the ground and sit in a neutral position. Offer the dog a treat for passing back and forth through the hoop. Reward each pass through the hoop with a tossed piece of food. Once the dog is comfortable with the hoop, stand behind the hoop and restrain the dog by his chest. Toss a visible treat or toy through the hoop and release the dog to the reward. Do not use a verbal command for this exercise; you want the dog to simply understand that if there is a hoop in front of him, he should offer going through it, not jump over it or go around it. Remember to train this on both your left and right side. Your goal is to get the dog to go straight through the hoop with you ahead of him, next to him, or behind him, eagerly looking ahead for his reward. Combine the Plank and Hoop The next phase combines the two behaviors. The goal is to get your dog to drive across the board and then through the hoop. Place the middle board of the dogwalk on the ground and place the hoop at the end. Guide your dog onto the plank about 3' from the hoop end from the side, at a 15° angle. Ask your dog to hop on the board, and then toss your treat or toy beyond the hoop. Start your dog farther back on the 14 plank in short increments, about 12", with each repetition. If your dog jumps off the plank or misses the hoop, simply guide him back to the point where he made a mistake and retry. Stop here with a dog that is six months or younger. Move on to “Touch Board Training” below until the dog is over six months old. Clean Run | July 07

Clean Run Magazine - July 2007

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