Clean Run Magazine - November 2009 - 47

Fading the Target At this point I start to fade the target for the nose-touch dogs but leave the fences for the no-nose-touch dogs. I have found many dogs are dependent on the plastic target being visible; therefore, I fade the target fairly early in the training. For some dogs fading the target is as simple as removing it. For others it may be necessary to have the target visible for a couple of reps and then take it away for a couple of reps. Then replace the target and remove it, increasing the number of reps done without the target present. I have found making the target smaller and smaller for some dogs just encourages them to look for it harder. For these dogs I cover the target in grass clippings or dirt to make it less visible. Adding Motion and an Incline Up to this point I have always given the two-on/two-off cue while I am standing still. I now need to add handler motion into the behavior. Initially I do this at a walk, moving forward from one of the imagined squares and continuing to walk as I reward. I often walk in a semicircle around the front of the dog. I move the starting position of the dog and work each position in each square until the dog is at the beginning of the travel board. I then raise the travel board onto a step and repeat with the board at an incline. If I have had no problems with the dog holding the two-on/two-off position when the board is at an incline, I progress to training the behavior at the end of the dogwalk. the first slat of a USDAA dogwalk or approximately 6" from the end of the board and quickly work through some of the handler locations, both stationary and with motion. BaCkChaining The ConTaCT If I am working with a dog that will eventually perform a two-on/two-off on all three contact obstacles, I train the dogwalk to completion first, followed by the teeter, which is trained in parallel. The A-frame is trained at the very end. This minimizes the amount of two-on/two-off training and backchaining necessary on the A-frame. If the stair and travel board work is well trained, the backchaining of the full dogwalk goes fairly quickly. At first I place the dog on I then move the dog backward up the down ramp in 12" increments. I still have the fences present for most of the training, although I probably have done one or two sessions without the fences just to see if things are going well. If the dog cannot move into the two-on/two-off position without the fences, I start to fade the fences by moving the fences back so they protrude less and less from the end of the board. Then I remove the fence farthest from the side I am standing on and finally remove the fence closest to me. Once I have the dog starting from the top of the down ramp. I move the dog onto the middle board just before the down ramp. Remember to work both sides with motion and no motion when you give the two-on/ two-off cue. The farther from the end of the board the dog starts, the farther back I start to work my squares. Most of the time the dog is sent while I stand behind him. I stand ahead of him occasionally and expect him to continue past me into the two-on/ For some dogs fading the target is as simple as removing it. For others it may be necessary to have the target visible for a couple of reps and then take it away for a couple of reps. Then replace the target and remove it, increasing the number of reps done without the target present. November 09 | Clean Run 47
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Clean Run Magazine - November 2009

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