Clean Run Magazine - December 2007 - 23

Help! I Can’t and Ends Up Jumping Odds Keep By Lyn Kahn, photos courtesy of Ed Kahn In my last article, I recounted Jo Sermon’s jump training, which resulted in significantly improved jump form for my BC. Still, certain jumping sequences required separate dedicated attention. A long lead-out enticed the dog to look at or for me instead of that first jump, causing knocked first bars. Diving into a tunnel or chute often left the preceding jump’s bar on the ground. Struggling out of the chute or blasting out of the tunnel frequently left the subsequent jump’s bar on the ground. And, my personal favorite, jumps with only a small space for the dog’s landing often left me on the ground. Jumps from a Static Start 1 A 2 B A C D B Work on short, straight-line jumping sequences that use an assortment of jumps, alternate the type of first jump, and vary the spacing between jumps. Be sure to practice with different starting positions for the dog (vary his approach angle and distance from the first jump) and with different lead-out positions. Once you can perform the straight lines successfully with varied lead-out positioning and varied starting positions for the dog, zigzag and curve the line of jumps. The jumps in this category include the first jump on a course (if you lead out), as well as after pause tables and contacts (if you have stop-and-wait-for-release contacts). Obviously, these jumps are different because the dog does not have as much momentum going into them. But they may also be more difficult in the initial training because the dog is waiting for the release, very focused on the handler, instead of on the jump (and thus may not even see the jump until he knocks it). Here are a few recommendations for jump training with static starts: • Raise the height of the “first” jump by 2". • Measure and pace off your dog’s optimum start position (where the dog can consistently keep the bar up) both for a turn immediately after the jump and for a straight sequence. Use it in a trial to help you position your dog. But, be sure to train all different distances, so that eventually at a trial you can use the best distance choice for the course. • Set up short sequences alternating the type of first jump, the dog’s angle approaching it, the dog’s distance from the jump, and the handler’s lead-out position. Use doubles, triples, broad jumps, panels, and single bars. December 07 | Clean Run Figure 1 shows several straight-line jumping sequences that use an assortment of jumps and alternate the type of jump used for the first jump in the line. Notice in each sequence that the distances between the jumps are changed so that some jumps are close and some are far apart. When practicing sequences like this, vary the dog’s starting distance from the first jump as well as his approach angle for every repetition. Also vary your leadout position—try it from straight behind the last jump, with odd angles, and to the left and right of your dog. Change whether your back is toward your dog (while you are still looking at him over your shoulder) or if you are facing him or have your side toward him. Once you can perform the straight lines successfully with varied lead-out positioning and varied starting positions for the dog, zigzag and curve the line of jumps as shown in Figure 2. Figures 3 through 6 show four sequences that start from the table. Vary your position when calling the dog off the table—stand in front, next to, and behind each obstacle in the sequence. Change the angle and spacing between the jumps and the table. When you are successful with these sequences, substitute the contact obstacles for the table and work through them again. 3 T 1 2 3 4 2 3 T 1 4 5 1 T 2 3 4 6 1 2 T 3 4 23

Clean Run Magazine - December 2007

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Clean Run Magazine - December 2007