City Style and Living - Summer 2008 - (Page 44) Great eats in is Mexican island, obliquely opposite hotspot Playa del Carmen is steeped in Mayan culture. Best of all, the island spans 488 kilometres, allowing easy access to an array of delicious food COZUMEL Written and Photographed by KAiLASH MAHArAJ and SHivANA MAHArAJ Serruptitiously, on the way to the town market, we came across this paleteria, heladeria and neveria (ice cream parlour). We always make it our business to stop for icecream on a trip. It then became a ritual during our stay to pick up a popsicle or a cold drink or an ice-cream cone at Michocan. The mango popsicle we had was made with real fruit as was the tamarind and lime. The creamy vanilla ice-cream studded profusely with pecans was delicious (a definite must-try). A double scoop is a bargain at 15 pesos. The staff was friendly and helpful. With several locations in Cozumel, this chain is easy to locate. The reason we liked this paleteria so much is that real fruits and ingredients are used unlike many chains that resort to artificial flavouring. One beautiful night we followed the recommendation of a local through the avendias and calles of Cozumel to this restaurant. Dozens of chairs were laid out like red toy soldiers in an open garden and patio. We were greeted by sprightly Señor Miguel, the owner, who spoke to us in perfect English. As we ordered, Señor Jose, another member of the family came by and advised that "your order of quesadillas are not really Mayan - to truly appreciate local food you should try our specialties - salbutes, tostadas and panuchos." This was perhaps the best advice we got on our entire trip. Salbutes are corn tortillas fried until they swell with air making them fluffy with the unmistakable hint of corn. They are then topped with pickled and fresh vegetables and meat. Our order was so scrumptious, we had to have seconds. Panuchos are remarkably ingenious creations as we were privileged to learn when we were invited in the back to the main kitchen. Here, the staff rolls the dough by hand forming a pocket, then a small hole is punctured and filled with beans, seamlessly and evenly distributed throughout. The whole thing is then fried so that they layer of beans is sealed beneath the dough. This is then topped with chopped with vegetables. Tostadas are fried tortillas with a layer of mayonnaise and vegetables. All of these are great snacks (anjiotos), together, several make a wonderful meal. We also had jamaica (pronouned ha-mai-ka) agua fresca (drink), made fresh at the restaurant from Jamaican red sorrel. The meal was made especially memorable by the conviviality, warmth and humour of Señor Miguel and Señor Jose. After a chat Señor Jose put on his apron and joined the rest of the cooks in the kitchen. Dinner only. LOS TRES GATITOS Calle 7 between Ave 10 & 15 LA FLOR DE MICHOCAN Corner of 20th Ave. and Juarez LA PERLITA Tucked away in a quiet neighbourhood of San Miguel, La Perlita is a real catch. Large tortoise shells buoys, a shark replica all decorate this restaurant. The roof is made of thatch in traditional Mayan style. The nautical theme is not surprising given that the owner spends most days fishing on the East Coast of the island. Evidence of his hobby are found in pictures that adorn the walls and line the menu - an ugly 200 pound grouper standing almost five feet tall. We couldn't stay to sit down for our meal and instead asked for it to go. We were pleasantly surprised to open our package for our picnic lunch. Our shrimp and fish (grouper) tacos came with homemade chips and salsa infused with lime, radishes cut into flower shapes, wedges of orange, fans of cucumber and slices of avocado made this a delight to the eyes. The fish melted in our mouths and the shrimp were fresh and tasty. Av. 65 Norte 49 44 | SUMMER 2008 | citystyleandliving.com http://citystyleandliving.com
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