Walneck's Classic Cycle Trader - May 2008 - (Page 21)

MONTHLY FEATURES replaced, which is expensive but nonetheless I’d recommend you do it ASAP. You might try adjusting the steering head bearings, balancing the front tire and/or replacing the front tire as all of those things can cause wobbles, but the bottom line is don’t let go of the handlebars. As to the second question, on the face of it I’d say you’ve got dirt in the carburetors, if the bike just won’t pull when you turn the throttle the main jet is most likely plugged so I’d recommend cleaning the carbs before you go much further. While you’re in the carbs make sure the cables are fully lifting the slides and I’d also suggest you clean or replace the air filter and fuel filter(s) and check the ignition timing. If none of those things cure the problem perform a compression check, low compression will obviously make an engine run like a wet mattress, but check the easy stuff first. Cranking Along Hi Mark: I am restoring two 1971 Suzuki T500s. Engine work is in order and coming along nicely, except I am now at something of a sticking point. The crankshafts have 4 seals and orings, now each 37 years old. I want to replace them with the OEM seals and o-rings I have on hand, however, the inner two seals and o-rings can be accessed only by disassembling the crank. I will probably need to source NOS bearings as these have snap ring grooves, etc and appear to be Special Suzuki items, not something I can get from SKF. And, although this is my 20th year of restoring bikes, I am unsure of my ability to reassemble and true these flywheels properly. Do you know of a source for vintage twin crank work? Thank you, Dave Langlois Via e-mail BENCH RACING man-sized grip, it sounds like something is clearly amiss with yours. As a rule if the clutch operates easily with a new cable and becomes progressively worse with time then you need to lubricate the clutch cable on a more frequent basis. If the clutch is always stiff to operate then you’ve got a mechanical problem. So start by checking the following: 1. Make certain the clutch hub and basket are in good shape, if there are notches worn into the hub or basket fingers the clutch will never work properly. 2. Make sure the spring tension is properly adjusted- the dome of the adjusting nuts should be flush with the top of the stud. 3. Make sure the clutch is properly routed, with no sharp bends, don’t ty-wrap it to handle bars, and don’t clamp it tightly to the frame. 4. Make sure the clutch cable is robust enough to do the job. I like Barnett cables and rarely have problems with them. Some of the cheap replacement items are just too weak to do the job. 5. Lubricate the clutch cable every few weeks and make sure the lever end is also kept lubricated. 6. Make sure the clutch pivot isn’t unduly worn, which places strain on the cable and make sure the cable barrel pivots in the lever without binding. cult, however, pressing it apart and back together can be a headache. While there are lots of guys that can do it, a quick internet search turned up dozens of shops, my first choice would be an outfit called Moto Carrera, in part because they have a very good reputation and a ton of experience and also because they specialize in two-stroke twin cylinder crankshaft rebuilding as opposed to some of the other guys that tend to focus more on four-stroke stuff. They even list the T500 as one of their specialties. You can reach them at www.motocarrera.com or at; Moto Carrera, 10424 Burbank Blvd, North Hollywood CA 91601, Phone: 818 761-1177 Clutch Cable Catastrophe Mark, I have a 1973 Triumph 750 Tiger. I am having trouble with the clutch lever. It’s very hard to depress. Over time I’ve replaced several clutch cables due to breakage. I’ve replaced the whole clutch assembly including springs and the rod that operates the clutch. I’ve run out of ideas, I’m hoping you can help. Thanks, P.T. Via e-mail Q Q A P.T, While the Triumph clutches always took a Send your questions, comments And poison pen letters to Mark Zimmerman at Zimmemr@aol.com A Dave, Truing a twin cylinder crank isn’t all that diffi- BENCH RACING QUESTION WALNECKS.COM I WALNECK’S CLASSIC CYCLE TRADER® I MAY 2008 21 http://www.motocarrera.com http://WALNECKS.COM

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of Walneck's Classic Cycle Trader - May 2008

Walneck's Classic Cycle Trader - May 2008 Contents American The Buzz w/Buzz Walneck Indy Re-cap Bench Racing w/Mark Zimmerman My URAL Indy - A First Timer’s View Spokes for Hungry Folks Bob Wark of The Wark Shop An Interview w/Mitch Boehm of Motorclist Retro A Few Tips & Stories from Sidecar Insiders 1977 Harley-Davidson FLH Walneck’s 30 yrs in Review Events, Listings and Advertisements British 1971 Triumph 650 TR6R Biker Quiz - Results & Winners Motorcycle Tips w/Mike Brown European 1973 BMW R75/5 Japanese 1976 Kawaski KZ900 LTD Antique Cycle Clubs Competition Motorbikes and Scooters Memorabilia Parts, Accessories. Want Ads How to Place a Word Ad How to Place a Photo Ad Area Code Directory How to Subscribe Let Us Help with Your Event

Walneck's Classic Cycle Trader - May 2008

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