Walneck's Classic Cycle Trader - June 2008 - (Page 43) MONTHLY FEATURES TIP OF THE MONTH With the cover off, the entire primary drive is exposed. In our case, we had all the new stock parts at hand, including a new primary chain, inner clutch hub, clutch basket, new clutch plates, and new bearings. Sometimes only some of these parts are required; the primary chain being the one that normally goes first. This is especially true of economy grade primary chains. Another very viable option, if a full rebuild/replacement is found necessary, is to upgrade to a belt drive available for many bikes and sold by quite a few Walneckʼs advertisers. Britech and MAP manufacture quality units for Brits. Belt drives work excepClutch is lock ed by using tw tionally well-much better than stock, but are on o clutch plates shown. Impact bolted togeth wrench will be er as the expensive side. They are, however, worth used on high after clutch ro torque clutch d is removed nut . every bit of the expense if you can afford it. On our project, we had to remove two high torque nuts, one on the crank end and the second on the clutch. An air-impact wrench makes short work of these, but never use one for installation. Before we attacked these nuts, the clutch plates had to be removed and a clutch lock installed. Clutch locks are easy to make for most cycles by simply locking together a bonded and plain steel plate with a couple of bolts. With the clutch locked, the engine compression is sufficient force to allow the removal of the high torque nuts with an impact wrench. If a long lever is employed instead, youʼll have to drop the bike into gear and get a helper to hold the brakes while you apply force to the lever. Dang, too much free play is found in clutch. Sometimes this is just a loose nut, but it was on tight, so weʼll have to strip The inner clutch hub requires the special the primary and see whatʼs up. Note also excessive slack in puller shown and is available inexpensively from the primary chain. nearly all Brit parts dealers. Attempting to remove the hub with anything other than this tool often results in breaking the hub, so this is one of the jobs where you really do need the correct factory tool. On other bikes, itʼs also extremely wise to find out what sort of special tools may be needed and obtain/borrow them before beginning service work. Even with the Brit tool, sometimes youʼll need to heat the hub. Giving the puller bolt, after itʼs tight, a good shot with a hammer can also free up troublesome hubs. The front sprocket, however, can be pulled with just about any generic puller like the one shown. Before pulling it, youʼll have to remove the alternator rotor and stator, normally a fairly simple e of the tool a clear pictur tional oved to give process of removing three nuts and pulling the using a conven basket is rem Clutch b. Donʼt try ll the inner hu parts off by hand. With the front sprocket loose, needed to pu job. puller for this the sprocket, primary chain, and clutch basket can be removed together. WALNECKS.COM I WALNECK’S CLASSIC CYCLE TRADER® I JUNE 2008 43 http://WALNECKS.COM
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