Walneck's Classic Cycle Trader - May 2009 - (Page 34) MONTHLY FEATURES replacing the tubes and seals. Again, use good viton seals here. There are occasions where the factory really is at fault, and we offer here the case of a 1969 BSA A65 points seal. The seal isn’t really the problem. What happened is the factory goofed and made the hole just a bit too large on many 1969 assemblies, and what frequently happens is that the oil seal pops out on the run, and another old Brit gets a bad name. At one time, you could actually buy an over-sized seal to fit this blunder, but these have gotten scarce, so option B is shown in the photos. To get at the seal, the points plate and advance mechanism, or electronic assembly and magnets, must be removed first. My favorite way to remove the interference fitted assembly is shown. Carefully clean the seal area hole to remove all oil and old sealant. Install the new seal after liberally coating the case surface with a good sealant. Be careful to install the seal so that it isn’t leaning to one side and instead rests squarely inside the hole. The final step involves a punch. We need to put four small indentions at 90 degrees to each other THAT’S NOT A LEAK New seal is installed using a deep socket. right next to the seal. This will indent both the seal a tiny bit and the hole area but will not distort the seal so long as it’s not overdone. The liberal use of sealant and the punch locking secure the seal very well. Some mechanics do this on many seals of this nature to assure they don’t come out until the next rebuild. Well that fixes all the leaks around here. Wait a minute…..jeeez lookit that. I gotta buy me a new bike. Just kidding. Punch is used at 90-degree intervals to secure new seal. 34 May 2009 | WALNECK’S CLASSIC CYCLE TRADER® I WALNECKS.COM http://www.WALNECKS.COM
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