Georgia Magazine - June 2012 - (Page 39)

they’ve caught. He’ll call the restaurants with that news, and they’ll place an order. Wednesday he picks it up and drives back from Tampa to Atlanta to deliver the goods. “My heart’s in this,” says Nolan. “I don’t do it for money. It’s when I see the chefs’ happy faces at what I’m bringing them.” And among the chefs he makes very happy is Jason Paolini, chef de cuisine at Restaurant Eugene. “His product is gorgeous,” says the Louisiana native. Looking for a deal? One outstanding, mildly flavored fish is sheepshead, also called “prisoner fish.” It costs about $2 per pound at Buford Highway Farmers Market in Doraville and at Atlanta-based Holeman & Finch, a sister restaurant to Restaurant Eugene; it’s used in the fish and chips prepared there, says Paolini. For many restaurateurs, sustainability is a major consideration in choosing what fish to serve. At two locations—one in Canton and the other in Atlanta’s Virginia Highland neighborhood—Goin’ Coastal describes itself as “a sustainable seafood joint.” Zach Kell and Seth Hendricks own these two restaurants. The pair believes, moreover, that sustainable fishing practices yield the best quality seafood, as well as protect the environment from overfishing. Besides local fish, Georgia now gets a shot at more exotic species, thanks partly to specialized restaurants. Kyma, in Atlanta, offers a wide assortment of fish, including varieties from Greece flown in directly to the restaurant. One is Lavraki, a European sea bass. But Chef Pano Karatassos’ favorite is red snapper “Briam,” pan-roasted with roasted eggplant, zucchini, yellow squash, Roma tomatoes, potatoes and garlic. And if you’ve never had grilled octopus, this is the place to try it. While Georgians will never lose their fondness for catfish—especially fried catfish—most are eager to explore other ways of preparing local fish in ways that taste good and offer health benefits as well. Jane F. Garvey is a food, wine and travel writer from Decatur. June 2012 Zach Kell and Seth Hendricks from Goin’ Coastal in Canton and Atlanta’s Virginia Highland believe strongly in sustainably caught fish. This is one of the dishes that keeps both restaurants very busy with happy customers. Check the chalkboard for daily specials. Iron Skillet Redfish With Blue Crab Butter & Summer Vegetables Crab Butter 1/2 pound butter 1/2 pound lump blue crab meat 1 tablespoon lemon zest 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste Fish 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 (8-ounce) redfish fillets 2 medium heirloom tomatoes, peeled, chopped into large pieces 3 ears sweet corn, shucked, cut off cob 1/2 Vidalia onion, peeled, sliced thin 1 fennel bulb, sliced thin (save feathery tops for garnish) 1 tablespoon chopped garlic 1/2 cup dry white wine Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste Parsley, for garnish ing butter, lump blue crab meat, lemon zest, tarragon, parsley, white wine vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, salt and white pepper in a kitchen mixer, blending for 3 minutes. Set aside. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Place a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat, and add 2 tablespoons olive oil. Sear fish fillets on either side. Remove from pan and set aside. In same cast-iron skillet, add tomatoes, corn, Vidalia onion, fennel and chopped garlic; cook 1 minute. Add white wine and season with salt and pepper. Turn off heat; cook using residual heat for 1 minute. Place fish on top of vegetables, then place skillet in preheated oven. Bake for about 12 minutes, or until fish is done (flakes easily, but is still moist). Remove skillet from oven, and dab crab butter over fish. Garnish with fennel tops and parsley, and serve immediately. Serves 2. Smoked mullet is a quintessential Southern treat, and perhaps this is the best way to prepare this affordable fish. Down in Niceville, Fla., residents have a festival devoted to this fish, the Boggy Bayou Mullet Festival. Their website, cityofniceville. org/mullet.html, is full of recipes for this fish. This smoked mullet recipe is adapted from the one shown on Prepare Crab Butter by combin- HALYARDS Chef owner Dave Snyder of Halyards in St. Simons Island shows off a fine freshly caught specimen before his staff breaks it down into more manageable portions. More online at www.georgiamagazine.org 39 http://www.cityofniceville.org/mullet.html http://www.cityofniceville.org/mullet.html http://www.georgiamagazine.org

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Georgia Magazine - June 2012

Georgia Magazine - June 2012
Table of Contents
Viewpoint
Mailbox
Liberty Notes
Picture This?
Georgia News
Calendar of Events
Currents
Georgia’s Energy Outlook
Wholesome Fun and Shaping Winners
Where to Stay and Eat When Visiting the Rock Ranch in the Rock, and Winshape Retreat in Rome
Take to the Road
Travel Guide
My Georgia
Georgia Gardens
Georgia Cooks
Second Helping: Fish
Snapshot
Bonus Snapshot Submissions
Plant of the Month; Liberty Notes
Energy-efficiency Tips
June’s Online Trivia Contest

Georgia Magazine - June 2012