Georgia Magazine - June 2013 - (Page 38)

Toques and turnips Shining the light on Georgia’s fine dining chefs F BEVERLY TAYLOR ine dining and contemporary interpretations of classic Southern dishes are bringing out the best in Georgia’s adventurous chefs. Some haven’t yet gotten the attention they richly deserve, so here’s to shining a light on a few of Georgia’s exciting chefs, both young and established. Many are known in their immediate neighborhoods, but the rest of the state could benefit from their considerable culinary expertise. Open on Halloween last year, Dovetail in downtown Macon is all about the immediate region, from the owners, Chad Evans and Wes Griffith, to the chef. A native of Centerville, Chef Ashley Clemence at Graft in Grayson serves an international menu with some Southern touches; offerings change monthly. 38 Chef Doug Sanneman turns out dishes firmly rooted in Southern traditions even as they show a singular refinement. Even German traditions continue at the Woodbridge Inn where “boil’” peanuts work in Chef Hans Rueffert offers schnitzel as a sandwich. this fine dining establishment. Brined and lifted with a hit of drives Scott Foster, chef/owner with vinegar, they’re served as an “amuse wife Rhonda of decade-old Liam’s bouche,” meant to be nibbled before in Thomasville. Their current menu dinner. Sanneman works the local features sweet clams from Sapelo Issupplier/producer circuit for his raw land. Although they will go far afield materials. to get products, such as the scores of Also in Forsyth, just north of Ma- cheeses that are always kept on hand. con, Canadian natives Wayne and While many come from fine American Terri Wetendorf established their producers, they source still more from stellar fine dining operation, The other lands. Grits Café, in 1999 on the square. A In Valdosta, you’ll find Chef/ terrible fire destroyed their restaurant Owner Keira Moritz, who returned in 2012, but it reopened this past Feb- after cooking in San Francisco and ruary, even lovelier than before. Atlanta and launched Steel Magnolias South of Interstate 16 in Lyons, in one of the city’s historic buildings. John Mark Lane, a West Virginia Her crispy duck confit gets a Southern native, plies his culinary trade at Ele- touch from the grits—locally produced ments Bistro & Grill. Open in 2007, Gayla’s Grits—she serves with it. the popular eatery creates dishes that Across North Georgia, some chefs range from cornmeal-crusted fried are new faces at establishments with oysters to lobster ravioli, and there’s familiar names, such as Chef Hans a wine list with some surprising se- Rueffert from the Woodbridge Inn in lections. Jasper. Shortly before taking over from Farm-to-table is the watchword his father, a native of Germany, Ruefof the day, and Seasons at White Oak fert became ill, although he still works Pastures near Bluffton does this well. avidly in the restaurant. Rueffert feaHere, Chef Jim Snyder heads to the tures a lighter menu than his dad used fields in the morning to choose the to do, but house stalwarts include a freshest items for a raft of vegetable- steak forestière. focused dishes, but he also has access Some of North Georgia’s winerto pasture-raised beef and chicken on ies have established fine dining faa regular basis, and sometimes other cilities. Among these is Dahlonega’s animal proteins as well. Wolf Mountain Vineyards and Winery, Besides using locally produced where Chef Darrin Stegemann ofraw materials, these chefs also con- fers wine dinners, such as one he did sider sustainability, natural and arti- with Jessup native Chef Justin Keith sanal products. of Food 101 in Sandy Springs, where That’s a major part of what duck sliders were paired with Wolf More online at www.georgiamagazine.org GEORGIA MAGAZINE HANS RUEFFERT BY JANE F GARVEY . http://www.georgiamagazine.org

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Georgia Magazine - June 2013

Georgia Magazine - June 2013
Contents
Viewpoint
Malbox
Liberty Notes
Picture This?
Georgia News
Calendar of Events
Currents
North Georgia on a Dime
Mobile Vacationing
Around Georgia
Planning your two- to five-day trip
My Georgia
Georgia Gardens
Georgia Cooks
Snapshot
More Snapshot photos
Plant of the month
June’s online trivia contest
Second helping: More recipes
Georgia Grown spotlight
Readers’ Choice entry form—last chance!

Georgia Magazine - June 2013