Theatre Design & Technology - Fall 1980 - 24

The over-shoulder is further deall with at point O. The quantity
given in the System is one-third of the over-shoulder and 'h". This division determines the shoulder slope from N to I in a very satisfactory
manner.
Point R is square with F C. The over-shoulder is provided for by
measuring from 25 to K, the amount thus obtained is placed at F and
the over-shoulder measure and 'h" marked at R.
Point D is square with C F and is determined by casting a sweep
from S to D, using F as a pivot. The point at D gives the run of the
gorge as satisfactorily as can be obtained, short of taking a direct
measure from the breastline.
Point M is found on the waist-line by a line dropped from C. The *
in front of M is in agreement with C and in a lounge jacket is 'h". This
quantity is increased to 1 " in the case of body-filting coats on account
of the more definite waist suppression. In each of these instances the
* settles the amount of waist suppression for normal figures only. This
suppression is arrived at by measuring from L to 5 and from 6 to 7,
the amount thus obtained is placed on the * and 8 is marked at the
half-waist measure.
Instructions have already been given to make L 3/." from W, and except in cases of pronounced disproportion this quantity need not be
altered. It should nevertheless be borne in mind that the point may
travel towards the perpendicular at the rate of one-sixteenth of the
disproportion, and that the space between Land W for a figure 44"
breast and 52" waist would decrease by Y2", and that this allowance
is in addition to the one-eighth of waist at 5.
Point 14 is quoted at one-half of 15 K.
It would be well at this juncture to measure up C K, deducting the
seams at 15 and 14 (1 "). In the majority of cases the balance will work
out at 1" more than the ordinary breast measure. If the waist is then
measured up from' to 8, 7 to 6 and 5 to L it will be found, on deducting the seams, to be in strict relationship with the breast.

taken to H. In all body-filting coats point 15 is always half the overshoulder from K, and point 7 is a similar distance from W. By making
point 5 one-eighth of the waist from L, and point 6 one-fourth of the
waist from 7, the over-shoulder measure is made to influence the
amount of waist-suppression in the back section, and will be found to
give a result entirely satisfactory.
For the purpose of securing uniformity in the System an underarm
cut is included in all jacket drafts which allow its use. The object of
this is to familiarize the student with the position of point F, which in all
ordinary cases will be found at the front of scye measure and four
seams (1 ").
In instances where the garment is produced without an underarm
cut, point F retains its position, and the absence of the cut is taken
into account when drafting the side-seam.
The net cross-chest measure is applied from F to point C, and this,
together with the front of scye allowance from K to F, gives the complete breast measure.
The neck-point S is obtained by joining the back and front balances, so calculation regarding its position is practically non-existent.
Apart from the convenience, the front of scye measure also defines
the lateral size of the shoulder, and as the shoulder increases in thickness the neck point advances in order to provide accommodation for
it.
The depth of scye influences the position of the neck-point: the
greater the back balance in proportion to the front shoulder, the more
advanced the point becomes; while in a relative degree the back neck
point also travels forward. The lalter change is a feature seldom dealt
with in other systems and its omission frequently ruins many otherwise well-cut coats.
Point H is one-fourth of the over-shoulder distant from E. This point
is of considerable importance in its bearing on the construction of the
sleeve.
Figure III

A SCALE OF PROPORTIONATE MEASURES FOR
CUTTING BLOCK PATTERNS.
TABLE 1
1

1
0

E

~

(J

.

~

~

0

'o 0.

8

L

Uf

E

J:

E

~

i

;

-

(J

i

:!

0

c

~

~

Ul

<

I

;

;

~

c

] ~ ~ I.
.. = ~ .

.

~
z

!

E

o

0

*

c

~~

:E

~

~

:: (J

I

.~

c 0
o *

..I,::

....*

~

~

.
. ;

~

:;

0

..

t

~
~~
c *
o 0

"
~

~

c

..I (J
"

0

..I

i

l

.;

· t !. ;;;g~
· . .. .
.
!
!
.ll

i

iOi

u;

2

2

~

c
0

0

~

~

f

0

0(

*

c

o :E

~

..I

I

.

.,"~

;;;

~

.

Ul

. .

L

0

"

<5

0

0

F.. 10

10.

10

10.

10.

10.

10.

10.

5 4

3:2

28

32

14i

16~

:28

5 5

34

30

5 6

36

5 7
8

In.

35t 37i

39~

43

6i 17i 29

34

15! 17 i 28 i 36i 38t

40~

44i

33

36

16} 18i, 29

37

39i

41~

38

34

38

16i 18i

38

40

40

36

40

17! 19!1 30 - 38i 41

42

38

42

18i 20i 30t

39~

42

5 10

44

40

44

19

40

42} 45i 51

511

46

42

46

19i 21i 31 ! 40i 43

6 0

I 4'3

44

48

20

46

50

20~

5

5 9

6

I

° I 50
I

22

10.

10.

l

21

I

I

Theatre Design & Technotogy

31

21i 32

40!

42~

I

>

44~

I

1

10.

In.

6~

1O~

10~

14!

8! 11

22!

6f 18i 29,

7k

10~

llt

15~

8~

11~

23t

45t

7

7t

ll~

11! 16i

9

12

24

47

7} 19

n

12k 12t 17,

9~

12i 25

8~

12~

13k

IS}

9~

13

8t

13~

13~

19

8i 1911 32

9i}

13~

14! 20

lOi 14

8i} 20t 32t

9k 14k

15~

10i 14i 29i

49!

45i

10.

In.

45, 52 1

nt

10.

In.

43t 48t

22t 32, 401 43! 46

i

I

29~

>

~

.
!

I
I
I

--1'-

!

I

~

~
0

18t 30
30t

7t 191 31
7~

I 19i

~Ot

31!.

33

10.

10}

20~

15t 21 t

In.

10~

11

In.

In

26

13 1 27

15

28t

53~

8i

55

9t 20t 33t lOt 15t l6} 22t 11} 15! 32

14~

30~

_.
USITI /Fall, 1980
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Theatre Design & Technology - Fall 1980
