Impressions - April 2017 - 26

This scuba design was attached to performancewear only with the outside circles
and wording (left). The design inside
the circle was stitched first, but didn't
perforate the garment (below). Design by
Bonnie Nielsen, Madeira Germany.

profile stabilizer. Using a piece of the Weblon No Show, combined with a lightweight,
1-ounce tearaway stabilizer for the bottom
layer, will add stability and a crisp look to
the overall design.
Always remember a garment's end use
during hooping. Once a design is embroidered onto stretchy fabric, you are working
against its purpose: ease of motion. So, when
hooping, allow for a slight amount of stretch
and remember points of impact. Adjust your
hoop so that it barely holds the garment before stabilizer is added. Then, test the final
hoop tension with the stabilizer, adjusting
as needed.
In some cases, a light amount of spray
adhesive can secure backing to the athleisure garment. This would be ideal when
hoop burn needs to be avoided.

In choosing the correct thread, needle and
bobbin for embroidering on athleisure garments, your overall goal is to "relax the
stitches." In this case, rayon thread - which
is softer, flexible and will lay nicely into a
design - is your best choice. It also requires less tension.
Of course, if there is any chance the garment will be bleached - a rare occurence
with quality performance garments - then
polyester thread is ideal. However, polyester
requires more tension, which may result in
additional stress on the garment and puckering. Rayon thread will maintain the soft
hand and its luster is more subtle than that
of polyester.
Use the thinnest-possible ballpoint needle; a #65/9 or #70/10 can be used with
P.26

40-weight embroidery thread. The needle
should create the thinnest point of penetration and the ball point will avoid snags
or "runs."
An alternative would be a universal point,
which can perform like a ballpoint needle.
Embroiderers like the former because it
eliminates the need to stop and change
needles. A 50-weight metallic thread can
be used without a needle change. If you are
about to begin an order, however, you may
want to start with a quick needle change
to avoid burrs that may have developed on
needles over time.
A quality bobbin always should be used
for best results. Before each new project,
test and adjust bobbin tension, if necessary. Correct tensions should be between
20 and 25 grams on a Towa bobbin gauge.
Stay on the lower side of the scale for athleisure garments.

Practice embroidering these garments ahead
of the job by purchasing extra pieces and
working out your "first-game" nerves.
The final step of embroidering should
include lightly pressing the garment with
a steam iron. This will relax the stitches
and eliminate puckering.
With athleisure booming in popularity,
you will - in all likelihood - be asked
to embroider on these fragile fabrics. Fol-

i m p r e s s i o n s m a g . c o m APRIL 2017

lowing these tips will either keep you in
the game - or ahead of it. 
Alice Wolf is the marketing communications
director for Madeira USA. She began doing marketing and public relations for the art industry
in New York, then migrated north to Madeira's
New Hampshire headquarters. For more information or to comment on this article, email Alice
at awolf@madeirausa.com.

Don't shy away from using specialty threads
on athleisure garments. Both 60- and
75-weight (shown) thread can be used for
small lettering or fine detail. Design courtesy
of Bonnie Nielsen, Madeira Germany.

http://www.impressionsmag.com

Impressions - April 2017

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Impressions - April 2017