Impressions - September 2017 - 22

Outerwear
Embroidery
Go behind the scenes to learn the full process involved in
stitching an old-style garment with a modern twist.
By Alice Wolf, Contributing Writer

"I loved this project!," Diltz says. "I researched flight
schools, sky-diving companies and old-fashioned planes.
The diamond and triangle shapes are common themes,
along with chevrons for the military connection. I knew
that I was going to be working with a dark background
[on the garment], so I was thinking along the lines
of bright colors. It turns out that orange is a common
color used in vintage airplane logos. Also, the more
subtle sepia tones were used a lot, so I incorporated
the tan into our design."
After adding the name of a flight school, "Sky's The
Limit Aviation Academy," the design was turned into
vector art for digitizing.
P.22

Medcraft explains his digitizing thought process thusly: "What is the size of the design, what are the sizes of
jackets it will be going on, are there any weird seams or
pleats and what color is the jacket?" he asks. "With Sky's
The Limit, my first key element was the wording across
the top. I think the satin stitch is the prettiest stitch for
lettering, but it should never go wider than 8mm. The
overall design of Sky's the Limit is 10 inches wide, so I
knew I'd be able to use a satin stitch for those large letters
and not have them go wider than the 8mm."
Medcraft adds that the jacket's dark color meant he
could use lighter densities. "For covering issues, the darker
threads could take a lighter density," he says. "Only the
tan color needed a little more. I chose to use Madeira's
Classic Rayon #40 thread because of the color selection,
its sheen and how well it sews. I tend to be conservative
in the artistic choices I make, sometimes using specialty thread to solve problems, but this design was very
straightforward."
A 40-weight metallic thread was used for the propeller
as a highlight and in order to give the effect of movement.
"I lightened the density in the blurred area and deliberately let the color of the plane show through, again, to
imply movement," Medcraft says. "I chose matte-finish
Frosted Matt #40 [thread] for the tires and the 'EST.
2017' text in order to bring those elements forward and
add to the design's [3-D look]."
Medcraft says most jackets are embroidery friendly, especially soft-shell jackets, which produce crisp
embroidery. In this case, the Port Authority jacket, which
is called a "bomber jacket re-imagined," was ideal because of its 100% polyester woven shell bonded to a
water-resistant film insert and 100% polyester microfleece
interior. The rib-knit cuffs and hem keep it fitted like

I M P R E S S I O N S M A G . C O M SEPTEMBER 2017

PHOTOGRAPHY BY HENRY BERNSTEIN, THREE DRIVEWAY MEDIA, SOLON, OHIO

The Graphic Approach

Digitizing The Design
GARMENT COURTESY OF SANMAR CORP.; DIGITIZING BY RICH MEDCRAFT, STITCHWISE EMBROIDERY DESIGN, EAGLE POINT, ORE.; EMBROIDERY BY MADEIRA USA;

hen a vintage style meets an innovative performance fabric, the possibilities for the
garment can soar. When tasked with embroidering a design on such a garment, imaginations can
be difficult to contain.
Such was the case when a team consisting of an accomplished digitizer, a graphic designer and an embroiderer
stitched a design on the back of the Port Authority softshell bomber jacket (style J337) from SanMar. Methods
were shared openly, suggestions were offered freely and
time - our most precious commodity - was invested
for everyone's benefit. The following is an account of
the process, followed by a step-by-step summary of the
embroidery production process.
The 1940s-era aviation theme for this project featured
a modern twist and vintage airplane. The design team included graphic designer Morgan Diltz, Madeira USA;
master digitizer Rich Medcraft, StitchWise Embroidery
Design, Eagle Point, Oregon; and embroiderer Nancy
Mini, Madeira USA.


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Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Impressions - September 2017

Impressions - September 2017
Contents
First Impressions
From the Show Director
Overheard
First Look
Scene at ISS
On Design
High-Flying Outerwear Embroidery
Cut From the Same Cloth
Screen Making in a New Era
Shop Talk
Embroidery Design & Digitizing
Sublimation
Direct-To-Garment
Ad Index/Online Directory
Classifieds
Impressions - September 2017 - CT1
Impressions - September 2017 - CT2
Impressions - September 2017 - Impressions - September 2017
Impressions - September 2017 - Cover2
Impressions - September 2017 - 1
Impressions - September 2017 - Contents
Impressions - September 2017 - 3
Impressions - September 2017 - 4
Impressions - September 2017 - 5
Impressions - September 2017 - First Impressions
Impressions - September 2017 - 7
Impressions - September 2017 - From the Show Director
Impressions - September 2017 - 9
Impressions - September 2017 - Overheard
Impressions - September 2017 - 11
Impressions - September 2017 - 12
Impressions - September 2017 - 13
Impressions - September 2017 - 14
Impressions - September 2017 - 15
Impressions - September 2017 - 15a
Impressions - September 2017 - 15b
Impressions - September 2017 - First Look
Impressions - September 2017 - 17
Impressions - September 2017 - 18
Impressions - September 2017 - Scene at ISS
Impressions - September 2017 - On Design
Impressions - September 2017 - 21
Impressions - September 2017 - High-Flying Outerwear Embroidery
Impressions - September 2017 - 23
Impressions - September 2017 - 24
Impressions - September 2017 - 25
Impressions - September 2017 - 26
Impressions - September 2017 - 27
Impressions - September 2017 - Cut From the Same Cloth
Impressions - September 2017 - 29
Impressions - September 2017 - 30
Impressions - September 2017 - 31
Impressions - September 2017 - Screen Making in a New Era
Impressions - September 2017 - 33
Impressions - September 2017 - 34
Impressions - September 2017 - 35
Impressions - September 2017 - 36
Impressions - September 2017 - Shop Talk
Impressions - September 2017 - 38
Impressions - September 2017 - Embroidery Design & Digitizing
Impressions - September 2017 - 40
Impressions - September 2017 - 41
Impressions - September 2017 - Sublimation
Impressions - September 2017 - 43
Impressions - September 2017 - 44
Impressions - September 2017 - 45
Impressions - September 2017 - Direct-To-Garment
Impressions - September 2017 - 47
Impressions - September 2017 - 48
Impressions - September 2017 - 49
Impressions - September 2017 - Ad Index/Online Directory
Impressions - September 2017 - Classifieds
Impressions - September 2017 - 52
Impressions - September 2017 - Cover3
Impressions - September 2017 - Cover4
Impressions - September 2017 - IO1
Impressions - September 2017 - IO2
Impressions - September 2017 - IO3
Impressions - September 2017 - IO4
Impressions - September 2017 - IO5
Impressions - September 2017 - IO6
Impressions - September 2017 - IF1
Impressions - September 2017 - IF2
Impressions - September 2017 - IF3
Impressions - September 2017 - IF4
Impressions - September 2017 - IF5
Impressions - September 2017 - IF6
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http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201612
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http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2016spring
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201602
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201601
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_201512
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http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/digitaldecorator_2015fall
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http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201509
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http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2015fall
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http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2015spring
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http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201501
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_201412
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201412
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201410
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_2014fall
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201409
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http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201401
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_sportsfanretailer_201312
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201312
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http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2013spring
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http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201212
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20121011
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2012fall
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20120809
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20120607
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http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2012spring
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http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201104
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http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2011spring
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