Impressions - March 2018 - 35

Working out the kinks
The biggest challenge when using metallic thread is that it likes to kink up as it spools off of
the cone due to its coarse texture. Additional tension helps with this a bit, but sometimes more
steps are necessary.
For instance, try positioning the metallic thread as far from the needle as possible. On a typical
multineedle machine, this means putting the thread cone on the holders toward the back.
Some embroiderers even put a problematic cone of metallic thread on a shelf behind the machine or on the floor. Those are more extreme circumstances, but you get the idea. The thread
needs time to literally work the kinks out.
A better solution to aid with the kinks that may form in the thread, as well as its springiness as
it unwinds (which often causes the kinks), is to place a thread net over the cone. This accessory
keeps the thread tighter against the cone as it spools off so that it doesn't create the looseness
and loops that cause kinks and other problems. The thread spools smoothly out of the top of
the net.
Thread nets are available from most stores that sell thread. Some machines even come with
them included in the tool kit. Some embroiderers use other options that accomplish the same
thing, such as panty hose or the netting around flowers when they are delivered to florists.
The idea is that you want something around the thread to keep light pressure on the cone so it
unwinds smoothly. - Impressions archives

However, a 40- or 30-weight metallic
thread will require a needle that is a size
or two bigger. In any case, it's best to
use a larger needle - if it's available -
as long as the fabric also is considered.
Remember, larger standard embroidery
needles will poke larger holes in fabric.
When possible, use a specialty metallic
thread needle because it won't puncture
a larger hole.

4. Choose the right design. Choose
simple and open designs without heavy
or dense fills. Heavy stitch-count
designs most likely will cause thread

If you don't have a specialty
metallic thread needle, use a larger
embroidery needle, such as an
80/12 sharp-point needle.

breaks. Also, choose longer stitch
lengths; the shorter the stitches, the
easier it is for the thread to shred
and break.

2. Slow down. Regardless of an embroidery machine's make or model, its
speed must be slowed when working
with metallic threads. Higher speeds
cause more friction, and the ultimate
goal when working with metallic thread
is to reduce friction as much as possible.
Machines can be set to a speed between 500 and 600 stitches per minute.
Depending on the needle and fabric,
it's possible to run metallic threads
at higher speeds - but only occasionally.
Other times, however, will result in thread
breaks and shredding that will ultimately
slow down production in the long run.
3. Reduce tension. To reduce friction and stress on the thread, loosen the
tension of the top thread of the working
needle. Make small adjustments to your
tension and test the design on a similar piece of fabric until the machine is
comfortable with the combination of
thread, backing and fabric.
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MARCH 2018

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Impressions - March 2018

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