Impressions - June 2018 - 40

Good pre-press equipment is critical
to achieving top-quality screens
quickly and accurately.
to achieve secondary and tertiary colors with four-color process
printing, combinations of the primary colors are printed on
top of each other. But in simulated process printing, secondary
and tertiary colors are printed directly through separate screens.
More screens are needed with simulated process printing,
since a white underbase and secondary colors, such as green,
orange and purple, are being printed with red, blue and yellow
primary colors, plus a highlight white. This explains why a
12- or 14-color press is needed to print some intricate simulated process designs. But this kind of printing enables mass
production of photorealistic designs on dark garments, such as
concert and biker tees, fashion apparel and more.
The Artwork
For the dress, Dane Clement of Great Dane Graphics provided
a design - stuffed animals in a wagon - from his online stock
clip-art collection.These designs already were color separated
for simulated process printing.
Art is the key to most popular garment lines, and most fashion printers have in-house artists to design fashion apparel.
According to Clement, any shop's new artist should spend time
on the production floor exposing screens and washing them
out. Not only should he be present when screens are set up on
the press, but he also should watch the entire printing process
to learn all the steps and see how everything works together.
Clement also recommends using Separation Studio to preview
art to see how it will look on a black background; if it looks
good on black, it will look good on all colors.
For this project, art was sized at 7 inches and a film positive
was printed.The size was too small for the dress, so Suhadolnik
resized it to 9 inches, then printed all six films.The dot size for this
design is a 55-line elliptical with the dot angles set to 61 degrees.
Clement designed this artwork to first print a white underbase
and flash, then print all the colors - wet-on-wet - on top.
"Printing wet-on-wet colors on top of the white underbase
helps mix the colors on press for more true color reproduction," he says.
Screen Selection
The screens contained aluminum frames and yellow 305 mesh
stretched to 25 N/cm, and were coated with Ulano Poly Plus
S with a one-on-one coating technique using the scoop coater's dull side.Yellow mesh is ideal for halftone printing to reduce
the amount of light scatter that causes undercutting during the
screen-exposure process.
Screen printing on fashion garments requires a different thought
process for mesh selection compared to traditional T-shirt printing.
For screen printing everyday vector art, 110-230 mesh counts
will handle most design requirements. But for fashion printing,
higher mesh counts in the 305 to 355 range commonly are used
to achieve the softest hand print and to enhance the fabric's drape.
P.40

i m p r e s s i o n s m a g . c o m JUNE/JULY 2018

The screens had a stencil thickness of 20% emulsion over mesh
(EOM) and were measured with a stencil-thickness gauge.This
factor is critical to ensure that the correct amount of ink is deposited
onto the garment's surface.
Film Output, Exposure & Setup
The film separations were printed onto roll polyester film with an
Epson SureColor T3270 and pre-aligned on the screens with the
M&R Tri-Loc system.They were exposed for 50 seconds on the
M&R Starlight LED exposure unit and washed out with water
in a back-lit washout booth.
Good pre-press equipment is critical to achieving top-quality
screens quickly and accurately. Raster Image Processor (RIP)
software is needed to translate the halftones in the art files to the
Epson printer.We used AccuRIP software to output the art files
sent by Great Dane Graphics.
All six screens were loaded on the M&R Kruzer manual
screen-printing press, taped and registered in less than eight
minutes.The M&R Tri-Loc system was used to pre-align the
images in the same location on each screen prior to exposing.
Ink Selection
The three main ink systems used in fashion printing are plastisol,
discharge and water-based inks.Today's plastisols are easy to print
through fine meshes, resulting in a soft-hand print.Additives also
can be mixed with plastisols to achieve a feel that mimics the
softness of water-based inks.
Water-based and discharge inks are great for printing on
fashion garments, but it's important to have the right equipment. Requirements include a forced-hot-air textile dryer,
water-resistant stencil chemistry and a basic understanding of
printing with water-based inks so they won't dry in the screen
during production. Today's water-based inks are much easier
to use than those from 10 years ago.
For the print on this cotton dress,Wilflex Epic plastisol and
GSG'sVortex plastisol inks were used.A soft-hand additive was
not needed since the 305 mesh alone provided the desired feel.
It's important to periodically use a "donut" thermal probe to
check the printed ink's temperature as it passes through the dryer.
The curing temperature for standard plastisol ink is 320˚F. Always
follow your ink manufacturer's recommended cure temperature
for the product you are using.
Here's how to use a donut thermal probe: Print a design on a
swatch of test material with standard plastisol ink and press the
probe's crosshairs into the wet ink deposit. Run the fabric through
the entire length of the oven to allow the ink-film temperature
reading to reach 320˚F. If the temperature doesn't reach 320˚F,
increase the oven's temperature or slow down the conveyor belt
until a reading of 320˚ F is achieved.
Simulated process printing can be easy when you have great
artwork, printing equipment and use steps similar to the following:


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Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Impressions - June 2018

Impressions - June 2018
First Impressions
From the Show Director
Overheard
First Look
Scene at ISS
On Design
Big Things Come in Small Sizes
Accelerating the Art Department
Screen Printing Production
Shop Talk
Embroidery Production
Screen Printing Technique
Sublimation
Ad Index/Classifieds
Impressions - June 2018 - Intro
Impressions - June 2018 - CT1
Impressions - June 2018 - CT2
Impressions - June 2018 - Impressions - June 2018
Impressions - June 2018 - Cover2
Impressions - June 2018 - 1
Impressions - June 2018 - 2
Impressions - June 2018 - 3
Impressions - June 2018 - 4
Impressions - June 2018 - 5
Impressions - June 2018 - First Impressions
Impressions - June 2018 - 7
Impressions - June 2018 - 8
Impressions - June 2018 - 9
Impressions - June 2018 - From the Show Director
Impressions - June 2018 - 11
Impressions - June 2018 - Overheard
Impressions - June 2018 - 13
Impressions - June 2018 - 14
Impressions - June 2018 - 15
Impressions - June 2018 - 15a
Impressions - June 2018 - 15b
Impressions - June 2018 - First Look
Impressions - June 2018 - Scene at ISS
Impressions - June 2018 - On Design
Impressions - June 2018 - 19
Impressions - June 2018 - Big Things Come in Small Sizes
Impressions - June 2018 - 21
Impressions - June 2018 - 22
Impressions - June 2018 - 23
Impressions - June 2018 - 24
Impressions - June 2018 - 25
Impressions - June 2018 - Screen Printing Production
Impressions - June 2018 - 27
Impressions - June 2018 - 28
Impressions - June 2018 - 29
Impressions - June 2018 - Shop Talk
Impressions - June 2018 - 31
Impressions - June 2018 - Embroidery Production
Impressions - June 2018 - 33
Impressions - June 2018 - 34
Impressions - June 2018 - 35
Impressions - June 2018 - 36
Impressions - June 2018 - 37
Impressions - June 2018 - 38
Impressions - June 2018 - Screen Printing Technique
Impressions - June 2018 - 40
Impressions - June 2018 - 41
Impressions - June 2018 - 42
Impressions - June 2018 - 43
Impressions - June 2018 - Sublimation
Impressions - June 2018 - 45
Impressions - June 2018 - 46
Impressions - June 2018 - Ad Index/Classifieds
Impressions - June 2018 - 48
Impressions - June 2018 - Cover3
Impressions - June 2018 - Cover4
Impressions - June 2018 - IO1
Impressions - June 2018 - IO2
Impressions - June 2018 - IO3
Impressions - June 2018 - IO4
Impressions - June 2018 - IO5
Impressions - June 2018 - IO6
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201912
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/dd_2019
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201909
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamactive_2019fall
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201908
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20190607
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201905
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201904
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201903
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamactive_2019spring
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201902
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201901
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201812
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/dd_2018
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201810
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201809
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2018fall
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201808
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201806
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201805
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201804
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201803
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2018spring
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201802
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201801
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201712
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201710
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201709
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2017fall
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20170607
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201705
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201704
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201703
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2017spring
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201702
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201701
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201612
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201610
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201609
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201608
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2016fall
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20160607
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201605
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201604
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201603
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2016spring
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201602
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201601
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_201512
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201512
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/digitaldecorator_2015fall
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201510
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201509
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201508
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2015fall
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20150607
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/digitaldecorator_2015summer
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_201506
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201504
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201503
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2015spring
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201502
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201501
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_201412
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201412
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201410
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_2014fall
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201409
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201408
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2014fall
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/digitaldecorator_2014summer
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20140607
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_2014spring
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201404
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201403
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2014spring
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201402
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201401
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_sportsfanretailer_201312
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201312
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20131011
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201309
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201308
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2013fall
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20130607
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201304
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201303
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2013spring
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201302
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201301
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201212
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20121011
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2012fall
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20120809
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20120607
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201204
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201203
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2012spring
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201202
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201201
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20111011
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20110809
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2011fall
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20110607
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201104
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201103
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2011spring
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201102
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201101
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_sourcebook2010
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20101112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20100910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2010fall
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20100708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201004
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2010winter
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201003
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201002
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_200909
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_eco_2009fall
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2009fall
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_200910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20091112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_sourcebook_200906
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201001
http://www.nxtbookMEDIA.com