JWM - Volume 4, Issue 1 - (Page 47)
fruits, tapioca balls (boba), green or red mung
beans, rice mochi balls and condensed milk.
"In Malaysia and Indonesia, [the flavors are] so
bold and sharp, they always finish with a frozen dessert or shaved ice to soothe that sharpness," says "Food Buddha" Rodelio Aglibot,
chief culinary officer of Intrestco Hospitality
Group and former executive chef for restaurants like L.A.'s Koi and Chicago's Sunda. He
works on Asian restaurant concepts across the
globe, including a Cantonese restaurant opening in Chicago this spring, which will house a
late-night shaved ice and boba dessert bar. "We
want to play off the concept of Chinese dim
sum," says Aglibot. The bar will serve shaved
ice and offer a visual array of sweet and savory
toppings: "preserved and fresh fruit, house
syrups (from lemongrass basil to Szechuan
strawberry), puffed rice, colored boba, fresh
herbs, condensed milk and more."
Hail to Halo-Halo
"It reminds me of a frozen dessert soup,"
says Chef King Phojanakong. His halo-halo,
Filipino shaved ice, is a hit on the menu of
his Brooklyn, N.Y., restaurant, Umi Nom. "It
means 'mix-mix.' I've had it since I was a kid,"
he says. The foundation is ice and milk, which
is topped with chewy nata de coco (coconut
milk jellies), pineapple, plantains, jackfruit,
toasted rice and more. "You can throw anything
in," says Phojanakong, who's added steamed
sweet corn and purple yam purée. The resulting mix is almost like an icy cereal on steroids.
CHILL
AND
SWILL
You'll want to make room on your spoon so
that bits of sweet, chewy, crunchy and cold hit
your palate all at once, tempered only by the
cool creaminess of the condensed milk.
Snow in a Bowl
Somewhere between shaved ice and ice cream
fall snow creams, a variation of shaved ice that
includes dairy in the frozen block pre-carving.
"They use über-sharp shaving machines that
shave slices of the block to give it a light,
feather-y texture that melts when it hits your
tongue," says Aglibot.
Chef/TV personality Jet Tila took nine
months to perfect his Kuma Snow Cream,
which appeared in Las Vegas' Chinatown last
spring. With a milk base, the flavored snow
creams (mango, strawberry, taro and green tea)
are frozen into blocks, shaved into ribbons and
topped with anything from Oreos to red beans.
"It's a marriage of decadent frozen treats with
all the fresh fruit flavors of Asia," says Tila, who
says snow creams combine the creaminess of
ice cream with the airiness of fresh snow.
LEW ROBERTSON, DNY59
Making Ice
Want to make your own concoction? You'll
need a machine (available at Japanese markets),
toppings and the right ice. "Buy simple syrup
and extract or use flavored syrups, chopped fruit
or preserved fruit," says Aglibot, "Eat it with ice
cream, chocolate syrup, anything." But it's really
all about the ice: "Make ice cubes in a shallow
Tupperware container or use plastic take-out
trays," he says. The idea is to opt for pure cubes
with the largest surface area; otherwise "you're
not going to get that light, fluffy, dreamy sort of
texture." The resulting perfectly sweet and icy
texture goes beyond trend to the stuff true taste
memories are made of. [
Even when desserts are a trifecta of
sweet, savory and frozen, they can
still cozy up to vino. "Dessert wines
have a certain level of acidity that
pairs better with sweet foods," explains VP of Global Public Relations
for Treasury Wine Estates Nicole
Carter. For the perfect pairing, "the
wine should be sweeter than the
dessert. The sweetness of the dessert will increase the perception of
the wine's acidity."
For shaved ice, Carter is all about
effervescence. "Some of the
sweeter-style sparkling Moscatos
or a Moscato d'Asti from Italy
would work. I'd pair them with the
Beringer Sparking Moscato (if the
dessert is not too sweet), or the
Beringer Nightingale, which is a
Sauternes-style Sauvignon Blanc/
Semillon blend. Or if it's a sweeter
version, the Chateau St. Jean Late
Harvest Riesling."
Phojanakong has paired halo
halo with a Sauternes or "a shot
of lambanog (coconut based liquor
produced in the Philippines),"
while Carter would opt for a white
Moscato or White Zinfandel for
the Filipino treat. Ask Aglibot and
he'd go with Gewürztraminer, "it
has little sugar, some fruit, that
with the texture of ice would work
really well."
At the JW Marriott Phoenix
Desert Ridge Resort & Spa in
Arizona, Executive Sous Chef
Michael Lamey is no stranger to
pairing a good wine with a cool
dessert. "A frozen sweet containing dark cocoa pairs with a vintage
port as the natural sweetness of
the port balances the bitterness of
a higher percentage cocoa." - A.F.
FOR CONTINUOUSLY UPDATED INFORMATION ON OUR PASSIONS OF ART, FOOD, WINE AND WELL-BEING, VISIT US AT FACEBOOK.COM/JWMARRIOTT AND
TWITTER.COM/JWMARRIOTT.
J WM MAGAZINE
47
J W M A R R I O T T. C O M
http://www.FACEBOOK.COM/JWMARRIOTT
http://www.TWITTER.COM/JWMARRIOTT
http://www.JWMARRIOTT.COM
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of JWM - Volume 4, Issue 1
Jwm - Winter 2014
Contents
JW Experts
Contributors
Editor’s Letter
Distinctive Products, People, Ideas & Style
Songs for Travel
Well-Being
Food + Drink
Arts
The Portal
Going Global
White Out
Kissaten and Tell
Redefining Green
JW Experience
My Passion
JWM - Volume 4, Issue 1
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/mcmurry/jwm_2014winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/mcmurry/jwm_2013fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/mcmurry/jwm_2013summer
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/mcmurry/jwm_2013spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/mcmurry/jwm_2013winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/mcmurry/jwm_2012fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/mcmurry/jwm_2012summer
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/mcmurry/jwm_2012spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/mcmurry/jwm_2012winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/mcmurry/jwm_2011fall
https://www.nxtbookmedia.com