Ritz-Carlton Magazine - Spring 2013 - (Page 90)
TOWN AND COUNTRY
From left: The Secret
Garden, known as Biwon,
in Changdeokgung, the
Palace of Illustrious
Virtue; a busy street in
Myeong-dong.
90
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w w w. r i t z c a r lt o n . c o m
Wandering the narrow alleys of Bukchon,
surrounded by traditional hanok homes, is to
walk into historical Seoul. These low-slung
buildings with imposing wooden doors and
intricately tiled curving black roofs inspire
passersby to imagine what it would’ve been
like to live here during the Joseon Dynasty
(1392–1910), when Korean royalty and nobility called this neighborhood home. Today,
Bukchon’s hanoks are likely to house chic
wine bars and cafés. High real-estate prices
have driven longtime owners to sell, and the
number of the area’s original hanoks — made
from wood, stone, straw, soil, clay and paper
— has diminished to fewer than 800; the
others are copies, built with concrete. Still,
weaving through these narrow alleys, past
the Bukchon Hanok Guest House, a restored
hanok where the painter Bae Ryeom once
lived, and past the remaining authentic old
houses, glimpses of Seoul’s past still exist.
Like so much in Seoul, Bukchon illustrates how the past and present coexist side
by side in a way that can only be described as
unexpected. After all, in the eyes of the rest
of the world, South Korea today equates to
hyper modernity, and its capital is known as
the most wired city on the planet, as one of
the most sophisticated design capitals on any
continent, as Asia’s contemporary art hub.
But amid the neon skyscrapers, sleek subways
and people young and old texting, emailing,
gaming, and watching live TV on superslick
mobile devices, is a deep, complex history.
And there is no better way to appreciate this
city than to experience those places that speak
to its centuries-long history.
Legends take Korea as far back as 2333 B.C.,
but the official era of Korea’s Three Kingdoms
— Goguryeo, Baekje, Silla — begins in 57
B.C., with Silla unifying them in A.D. 668. It
wasn’t until the succeeding Goryeo Dynasty
ended that Seoul became the capital, in 1394,
as part of the new Joseon Dynasty. While few
architectural relics remain from the earlier
kingdoms, five royal palaces from the Joseon
era have been preserved carefully. Majestic
and unchanged, these palaces live cheek by
jowl with the indistinguishable block concrete
apartment complexes that were rapidly erected
in the years following the Korean War. These
ancient palaces present, and represent, an otherworldly Seoul — one that evokes grandeur
and deep tradition.
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Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Ritz-Carlton Magazine - Spring 2013
Ritz-Carlton Magazine - Spring 2013
Contents
Contributors
Editor’s Letter
President’s Letter
Falling in Love With ... Los Angeles
Design
Technology
On the Boulevards
Shopping
Jewelry
Watches
Family
Local Knowledge
Sports
Abu Dhabi
Seoul
Fashion
Culinary
Let Us Stay With You
Heritage
Ritz-Carlton Magazine - Spring 2013
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