Ritz-Carlton Magazine - Summer 2013 - (Page 108)

“EvEryonE drEams of having a coconut straight from thE bEach,” andrés says, with a glint in his EyE. Sugar & SPice Clockwise from left: Sugar-dusting the Mallorca buns before caramelizing them; the bull’s head, symbol of Spain, in the dining room; a splash of rum finishes the signature coconut coquitos. 108 w w w. r i t z c a r lt o n . c o m of Andrés’ coquitos, a coconut shell. Each morning his staff combs the beach for the massive fruits that have fallen to the sand. “Everyone dreams of having a coconut straight from the beach,” Andrés says, with a glint in his eye. That glint is because not everyone imagines the flesh and water of the coconut rendered into perfectly round orbs through a technique called “spherification.” This is why alongside the tubs of limes and plantains on the stainless steel shelves opposite the burners there is a shelf labeled “algin”: The spherification technique involves injecting alginate into the coconut liquid and then dropping it into an algin bath to give it a solid skin. The result is like giant ikura eggs, ready to burst into your mouth. These spheres are gathered in a coconut shell and then served in a bath of rum and club soda. The coquito is a traditional cocktail here on the island, almost like an eggnog. But in Andrés’ hands it becomes a fascinating, refreshing palate cleanser. “You are eating the essence of the coconut,” he says, finishing his concoction with slivers of mint leaves. Indeed, it is the most simple of tropical tastes, water for castaways, made modern and elegant in the master’s kitchen. There’s something thrilling about the high-low split on the Mi Casa menu — the simple things, the classic staples, made new. In the dining room, a giant, regal bull’s head hangs on the wall, sporting a gold lamé Mexican wrestling mask. This is the credo of this menu: The Old World meets the new one, with reverence and irreverence, always with wit and pleasure. That credo, and that pleasure, comes no more acutely than in the “Mallorca” dish, which upon first bite caused my often-reticent husband to moan, “I want to cry.” (I would have opened my mouth to agree if I hadn’t been already deep into my second bite. Pan de Mallorca is a pastry traditionally eaten for breakfast on the island. Andrés reinterpreted the bread for the base of this dish (which is essentially the world’s greatest slider), by making it with Spanish techniques, making a dough with butter instead of the traditional pork fat, layering it à la mille-feuille, and baking it into a light, sweet bun. Then, “to make it truly 2.0,” as he puts it, the bun is sliced in half and filled with foie gras. As if that were not enough, the sandwich is then caramelized with sugar. This is a dish that can make you forget all about the bikini you packed for the next day. Cardiologists, judge me not. Despite the fact that veal cheeks, pork buns and a couple of dessert courses beckoned ahead of me on this refined but relaxed tasting menu, I ordered a second one. Bueno, indeed. http://WWW.RITZCARLTON.COM

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Ritz-Carlton Magazine - Summer 2013

Ritz-Carlton Magazine - Summer 2013
Contents
Contributors
Editor’s Letter
President’s Letter
Falling in Love With … New Orleans
Design
Technology
On the Boulevards
Shopping
Jewelry
Watches
Family
Local Knowledge
Sports
Cancun
Doha
Fashion
Culinary
Let Us Stay with You
Heritage

Ritz-Carlton Magazine - Summer 2013