Ritz-Carlton Magazine - Winter 2014 - Chinese - (Page 124)

"The mosT simple Things are The mosT wonderful Things," pérez says. "简单往往妙不可言，帕科佩雷 " · 斯说。 PINCH HI T T ER Above: Three intricate steps in assembling the crab stew. 修剪蟹钳上方：需要三个复杂的步骤才能收集到蟹肉进行清炖。 124 w w w. r i t z c a r lt o n . c o m On this morning, a delivery interrupts the kitchen banter. A young man, the son of a fisherman who has been friends with Pérez for years, bears two Styrofoam cases filled with langoustines that were living off the Costa Brava mere hours ago. The staff gathers around like children at Christmas examining the pink, twitching creatures. Pérez grins and walks to the stove to start sautéing baby squid, one by one, with tweezers as his utensil. Service is beginning, and the mood, while still warm, is about to get serious. Every year Pérez finds a new way to innovate gnocchi, and he's about to debut his latest: tiny bundles of white potato and black squid ink, each a bursting mouthful of earth and sea, accompanied by grapes and onions that have been vacuum packed and chilled in an algin bath for hours. The result is a stunning conversation of textures and flavors - a combination utterly surprising yet entirely sensible. The sous chef sets a dish of various tweezers and scissors beside a pristine white plate. "This is very much the culture of El Bulli," he whispers, citing Pérez's occasional co-conspirator Ferran Adria, whose molecular gastronomic kitchen, now closed, was once heralded as the world's best. "The most simple things are the most wonderful things," Pérez says, "but it can take innovation to find their simplicity." This philosophy evolved gradually for Pérez. He was hardly born into a family of culinary innovators - his grandmother roasted potatoes and brewed coffee over an open fire in their home. The aromas resonated with Pérez, and around age 12, he took to the notion of becoming a chef. He wanted to make a pizza, but as he had no oven, he tried to bake a thick round of dough in the sun. "Needless to say, it didn't work," he grins. "But that's when I learned perseverance." Perseverance brought Pérez from the seaside town of Llançà to the storied French kitchen of 这天上午送货人打断了厨房内的谈笑风生。，这名送货的年轻人是一位渔民的儿子而佩雷斯与这位，渔民相交多年，年轻人送进来两个装有新鲜海螯虾的泡沫塑料箱，这些海螯虾数小时前刚从科斯塔布拉瓦捕捞上来。员工们像过圣诞节的孩子般围拢过来，检查这些正在扭动的粉色海螯虾。佩雷斯笑着走到炉边，开始用镊子作为工具逐个煎鱿鱼仔。店内开始营业，温馨嬉闹的氛围瞬间变得严肃起来。佩雷斯每年都要别出新意地改良汤团。今年，他即将推出最新的汤团：主要食材为一小束土豆条和黑色乌贼墨（每次都能喷出一大口泥土和海水），并用真空包装的葡萄和洋葱（已在褐藻酸中冷冻浸泡数小时）加以点缀。结果是带来了令人回味无穷的口味和口感，这一组合完全出人意料，却又在情理之中。副厨师长将各种镊子和剪刀放在白盘旁边的碟中。 "这就是斗牛犬餐厅的特殊文化，他低声说道， " 这是佩雷斯的临时合伙人费兰阿德里亚的话费兰 · ，的分子美食厨房现已关闭，但曾被誉为全球最顶级的厨房。 "简单往往妙不可言 " ，佩雷斯说，但需要创新才 " 能发现简单中蕴藏的奥妙。佩雷斯逐渐将这种理念 " 演变创新。他出生在烹饪创新世家他的祖母曾在家，中燃起篝火并在火上烤土豆和煮咖啡。，这扑鼻的香气激起了佩雷斯内心的异动，在大约 12 岁时他产， http://WWW.RITZCARLTON.COM

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Ritz-Carlton Magazine - Winter 2014 - Chinese

Ritz-Carlton Magazine - Winter 2014 - Chinese
Contents
Contributors
Editor’s Letter
President’s Letter
Falling in Love With ... Bangalore
Design
On the Boulevards
Shopping
Gifts
Beauty
Jewelry
Watches
Tradition
Behind the Scenes
Family
Local Knowledge
Outdoors
As It Was
Herzliya
Fashion
Culinary
Let Us Stay With You
Heritage

Ritz-Carlton Magazine - Winter 2014 - Chinese