Military Officer - April 2007 - (Page 68) glinted from the high spires of Montepulciano, home of the exquisite Vino Nobile red wine. Below my perch, hunters whistled their hounds through a freshly harvested field, flushing quail for their dinner tables. I inhaled deeply. The earthy smell of loam, plow-turned for thousands of years, intertwined with the sweet fragrance of sunflowers and the sharpness of my cappuccino. That blended aroma held the promise of the day — one of nearly infinite possibilities for my villa-mates and me. Whether we chose a scenic drive along the Montalcino, Pienza, or Montepulciano wine roads; a visit to a local market; or a lounge around the sapphire sparkle of our villa’s swimming pool, it would be at our own relaxed pace. No bus deadlines, shouting tour guides, or long lines in which to wait. This was the way to experience Italy. week or two instead of dragging the kids (and their accompanying gear) through a series of hotels. My wife and I planned our trip with three other couples — long-time college and military friends — whom we don’t get to see often enough. Selecting Cortona as our base After extensive research, we chose Fattoria Paola, a recently renovated farmhouse with modern conveniences. It is a short drive from Cortona, the southeastern Tuscan town made famous by Frances Mayes in her award-winning book Under the Tuscan Sun (Chronicle Books, 1996). Her own villa, Bramasole, lies just outside the walls of Cortona. Fewer than three hours by car from the Rome airports, Cortona makes a superb base for exploring southern Tuscany and neighboring Umbria. The famous Brunello wineries of Montalcino, the awe-inspiring cathedral of Assisi, the Lake Trasimeno battle- Relaxing and immersive Guided tours can be a great way to see Italy, but you tend to trek along the same path as tens of thousands of other tourists, rushing from site to site at a frenetic pace in an attempt to take it all in. Villa vacations — which rapidly are increasing in popularity among American travelers — have long been a holiday staple for our European brethren. Instead of bellying up to the vacation smorgasbord and trying to cram as much as possible into a seven-, 10-, or 14-day tour, on a villa vacation travelers can carve out a small, digestible piece of Italy and savor it like a fine meal. It is all about slowing down, relaxing, and immersing yourself in the quaint shops, family restaurants, and local history that make Italy so delightful. Villa vacations are ideal for extended families or large groups who want to stay together, because it’s easy to find accommodations for as few as six or more than 20 people. Families with young children often find it easier to settle into a villa for a 68 MILITARY OFFICER APRIL 2007 Replica of Michelangelo’s David in the Piazza della Signoria, Florence field (the site of Hannibal’s first great victory over the Romans in 217 B.C.), the delightful market towns of Gubbio and Deruta, and the festival city of Arezzo are all within quick driving distance. The more popular Tuscan cities of Florence and Siena are only 90 minutes away by train from the Cortona-Camucia station. You easily can spend a week exploring Cortona itself. Not-to-be-missed sites include the excellent Accademia Etrusca (one of the finest Etruscan museums in Italy), the medieval houses along the via Janelli, and the picturesque Santa Maria delle Grazie Church (a 15-minute walk south of town). Those wanting a good workout can hike through winding alleyways to the Fortezza Medicea, which commands the northeast corner of the town, and find stunning views of the surrounding countryside. Via Natizionale is lined with quaint shops stocked with local ceramics and art. Long, relaxed dinners are almost a requirement in Tuscany, and Cortona offers a variety of culinary experiences. Our favorite was the Trattoria La Grotta — friendly, reasonably priced, and located down a tiny alley just off the Piazza della Repubblica. Just ask for Gian Carlo. Across the square is the Ristorante La Loggetta, which has numerous tables for alfresco dining. The highest-rated restaurant in the area actually is about two miles north of town. Relias Il Falconiere is renowned for its fine dining, outstanding wine list, and atmosphere. Advance reservations are highly recommended and can be made online at www.ilfalconiere.com. Planning your villa vacation getaway Booking a villa requires more work than a tour vacation, where most choices are made for you. First, you will need to rent a car. Some villas are close enough to major transportation centers to use the rail and bus PHOTOS: PREVIOUS SPREAD, DOUG PEARSON/CORBIS; THIS PAGE, ABOVE, JOHN AND LISA MERRILL/CORBIS; TOP, TODD PETREE Town Hall, Cortona http://www.ilfalconiere.com
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