Beauty Link - Volume 1, Issue 2 - (Page 56)

Q | mu lt i c u lt ura l c or n e r | R PERFECTING THE ART OF COLOR D arle n e Ze m bro d , Na t i on al Trai n e r, Mira b ell a Bea u t y Whether they stop in for a hair service, manicure, facial or massage, every woman who leaves your student salon needs to walk out with a finished face. That’s why it’s so important for all future professionals – whether in your cosmetology or esthetics program – to be educated in selecting and applying makeup. Evaluating Skin Tones The first step is learning how to evaluate the client’s skin tone. When future professionals understand the following process, they can easily reach for the right foundation, blush or eye makeup to complete their clients’ looks. There are six levels of skin coloring: three types of fair skin level categories and three types of dark skin level categories. • The light category ranges from palest of pale to fair (usually referred to as peaches and cream complexion) and fair with a beige tint (those who are light skinned but can tan easily and might have a sallow tone). • Darker complexions range from light tanned appearance with sallow or olive in the undertones, to deep brown pigment with a red/yellow undertone to the deepest of pigment with a bluish undertone. Cool or Warm? Most skin levels will also fall into one of two skin tones – either cool or warm. About 75 percent of the population is cool – either “delicate” cool or “vibrant” cool. About 25 percent are warm, whether a “gentle” warm or “dramatic” warm. Look to hair and eyes to give you the quickest clue. Have your students drape each other in either true vibrant pink or peach swatches, then look for shadows forming on the face. The face that shows the least amount of shadow under the eyes, nasal labia fold or chin when the cool or warm swatch is close to the face is its corresponding tone. Teach to analyze the hair, skin and eyes of each until they quickly learn by sight how to see without draping. Neutral: A Failsafe Alternative If in doubt whether person is cool or warm, a failsafe alternative foundation is a neutral. This type of foundation can make the skin look lifeless when applied all over the face. To correct that effect, add life with powder, such as bronzers or chromas (powders with varying shades of pink, peach or bronze in them), which can be used to bring life to a lifeless complexion. Neutral foundations are also recommended to cut the excessive pink/ red tone for clients with lighter complexions with a ruddy skin tone and a cool undertone. On darker skin tone, applying red in a bronzer will balance an ashen appearance. Visual Student Exercises To help students become familiar with the product they are using and how it impacts the skin, try this simple exercise: 1. On a sheet of paper, have them write the number and name of each foundation, with one starting with the lightest shade. This will help them learn to recognize the shades and undertone by sight. 2. On the skin of their inner arm, have them write the number and apply the corresponding shade of foundation. They will immediately see the undertones very easily on their skin. Yellow and peach are warm undertones. Pink, red and blue indicate cool undertones. 3. Have them then observe how the undertones look on their classmates’ skin. To help train the eye to see color well, try this exercise. 56 | B EA U TY LIN K | T O O LS O F T HE T RADE 2 0 0 9

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Beauty Link - Volume 1, Issue 2

Beauty Link - Volume 1, Issue 2
Message from the AACS President and CEA Chair
The Workings of Washington
The Ergonomics of Cosmetology
Creating the Perfect Brow
Smart Technology
Is Your Web Site Hooking Visitors?
And Then There's Compliance
Voices from the Classroom
Marketing to Male Clientele
Lasers in the Esthetics Industry: Past, Present and Future
Unemployment’s Influence
2009 AACS Select Industry Partners
The Less Common Road
Candid Cameras
Regulatory Issues
CEA Convention
Early Warning Indicators
Beauty Schools 101
Multicultural Corner
Upcoming Events
New Products & Services
People & Places
2009 AACS Spring Management Conference
New School Member Profile
Look Who's Reading
Index to Advertisers

Beauty Link - Volume 1, Issue 2