Gourmet Retailer Magazine Personnel Trainer 2008 - (Page 22) PANNED CHOCOLATES ew people don’t enjoy the comforting taste of chocolate, especially when it’s made by people who are passionate about their product, use only the finest and freshest ingredients, and time-honored techniques. It also helps when there is a savory and yummy center such as almonds, dried fruit, or even the added pick-me-up of an espresso bean. Panned chocolates are one of the oldest examples of the master chocolate-makers’ art. They are not only delicious, they also make great gift ideas for just about anyone. By offering the best quality to your customers, you do them a great service by helping them to understand and appreciate artisanal chocolate. l How are panned chocolates made today? Over the years, the process evolved into hand or foot pedaloperated rotating copper pans. The centers were deposited into the pans, and then one or more types of chocolate were ladled on top of them. The rotation of the pans distributed the chocolate more evenly, and since the process continued after the chocolate cooled, provided a better shine. The next advance in panning was the invention of machine-run rotating pans, and the careful control of the air used (temperature and humidity) to assist in the coating and drying. Today, there are self-contained belt coater units that are computer programmed. One merely deposits the centers into them, hits some buttons, and spray heads or a drip system deposit the chocolate. These modern machines achieve a commodity-level result. Inexpensive commoditylevel products definitely have their place in the industry, but for a gourmet retailer who takes pride in their shop and wares, gourmet-quality dragees made via Old World techniques combined with modern technology certainly contribute to repeat business and a store’s panache. F What Are Panned Chocolates? Panned chocolates, also called “dragees” (drah JAYZ), involve some type of center or “kernel” (for example, a roasted almond) on which one or more types of chocolate are layered. The term dragee comes from the French word for dragging something, an apt description of the process. To make the original panned chocolates, centers such as almonds were dipped into a vat of chocolate and then dropped into burlap bags, which were then literally dragged on the ground or swung overhead so that the chocolate pieces inside rubbed against each other. The resulting friction created some uniformity in the chocolate coat, along with a slight shine. l What should I look for in a panned chocolate? The finest panned chocolates are still made in fairly oldfashioned ways, with chocolate makers apprenticing for years under a master chocolatier. Educated consumers can take one glance at a panned chocolate and quickly be able to judge the quality of manufacture by asking themselves the following questions: Are the pieces smooth rather than pitted and uneven? Are there any doubles? Does the chocolate have a mirror-like shine? As to the taste profile, a number of aspects separate a premium panned chocolate from a mere commodity-level confection. First, of course, is the quality of the ingredients. Is a premium chocolate used? Is the center a top-quality nut, espresso bean or diced dried fruit? But there are also several more subtle considerations that can make all the difference. Surprisingly, not every premium chocolate blends well with certain centers. A top panner will choose and even specially blend several chocolates together to achieve the perfect coating to bring out the subtleties of the center. Look for confections created by companies that focus on production ethics and attention to detail rather than on manufacturers who contemplate only how many pounds can be produced in an hour and, therefore, employ economies of scale. In many senses, producing a fine panned chocolate is very similar to what a gourmet baker or a pastry chef creates — there is simply no substitute for hard work, great ingredients, and a true passion for what you are producing. And if you can find an “artisan” panner who produces small batches to order and will be willing to do custom small runs to “tweak” their product to your special needs, that is, of course, the ultimate. l What types of panned chocolates are available? A variety of panned chocolates are popular today, including such revolutionary items as Chocolate-Covered Espresso Beans. New York-based Koppers Chocolate actually invented the Chocolate-Covered Espresso Bean over 40 years ago. Koppers has been making panned chocolates since 1937. 62 The Gourmet Retailer Magazine | February 2008
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