Gourmet Retailer Magazine Personnel Trainer 2008 - (Page 4) ASIAGO CHEESE he firm, full-flavored Asiago has been made more or less the same way for over a thousand years in the Veneto region in northeastern Italy. It takes its name from the town of Asiago and the surrounding plateau, although its official DOP status allows the milk to be collected from the adjacent provinces of Vincenza and Trento, as well as parts of Treviso and Padua. Asiago is an easy cheese to like and has become a staple of the deli department in recent years. It is also quite versatile and can be enjoyed for snacks, in sandwiches, and in various cooking applications. l Where is Asiago made? Asiago is named for both a town and a region in the Veneto region in northeastern Italy. It is the region that includes the famed city of Venice. The area known as Asiago includes seven districts or boroughs, or the Sette Comuni Plateau, known collectively as “the Switzerland of Italy,” as much for its breathtaking beauty as for the richness of the pasture land. It is also an area marked by immense fir woods that ring the pastures. It is from here that the very best milk for the making of Asiago is produced. T Historical Highlights Although Asiago today is made from cow’s milk, sheep were the dairy animals of choice during the Middle Ages, even for the production of Asiago. To this day, the dialect term for the cheese, used by older mountain-dwellers of the region, is pegorin, or “sheep’s cheese.” l How is it made? Most of the milk for the making of Asiago comes from cows pastured in lush mountain areas where they happily graze throughout the spring and summer months before making their annual trek back to the valley, a journey known as transhumance in which the cows are feted and cheered on as they make their way down from the mountains. The cheese is made by dairy cooperatives and artisan cheese factories in time-honored methods, with some of these traditional cheesemaking facilities actually located up near the Dolomite Mountains. Asiago is offered at varying degrees of maturity, aged from 30 or 40 days up to a year, depending on the type of Asiago and the desire of the cheesemaker. l Are there different types of Asiago? Yes. Asiago Pressato is made in the low-lying areas of the Veneto and Trentino-Alto Adige. It is a soft, buttery cheese that is very good for melting. Asiago d’Allevo is a more substantial cheese that is aged much longer, has a deeper, caramel flavor and is a delicious cheese for a cheese plate or in sandwiches. When at least three months old, the cheese is known as mezzano; and when more mature (nine months or older), it is called vecchio. Stavecchio is an even older version that is perfect for grating. There are two other very special versions of Asiago. First is Asiago di Montagna, produced in one of the most prestigious dairies in all of Italy, Caseficio Pennar in Asiago. Made from whole pasteurized milk produced exclusively from cows that pasture in the lush Asiago meadows, it is pressed by hand and matured for 30 to 40 days in underground aging chambers — which provide a precise balance between moisture and an ideal temperature typical of the plateau climate — and European fir boards, resulting in microbial lactic flora that is essential for the production of quality cheese. The cheese is symbolized by an iron mark showing “Prodotto della Montagna” (product of the mountain), branded on the surface of the cheese. The interior is strewn with tiny holes and the flavor is characterized by fresh milk flavor. Another very special Asiago is called Trugole, made in the pre-Alps north of Venice at an altitude of 1,000 to 2,000 meters. The cheese is named for the smallest of the pastures in the higher zones of the malghe, or “mountain pastures,” where the richest and most varied grasses are to be found. Its flavor is more pronounced, redolent of the sweet herbs and grasses upon which the cows feast. Trugole is truly an artisan cheese, made by hand using carefully selected cultures and time-honored methods of production, and also pristine milk from cows that only eat the foliage from a particular area. Each day, the wheels are turned and treated with water and salt to preserve the soft texture of the paste. After 60 days, the cheese will have reached an ideal peak for consumption. It has a soft and mellow texture, a rather accentuated eye formation, and a definite pleasing taste reminiscent of the rich milk from which it is made. l What is the best way to serve Asiago? The different Asiago varieties offer different serving opportunities. Young, soft Asiago is great for melting, in sandwiches and for snacking. More mature Asiago, such as the Trugole, is a great addition to a cheeseboard or a cheese course, sliced for sandwiches and on top of salads, and used in various cooking applications. Asiago is a very easy cheese to like and children tend to like it very much, making it a healthy and delicious snack for them. 44 The Gourmet Retailer Magazine | February 2008
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