NYLON - February 2008 - (Page 60) DOUBLE D NEW LABEL DAVID DAVID CREATES MANY AN OPTICAL ILLUSION. BY ANDREA CUSICK. PHOTOGRAPHED BY LINDA BROWNLEE David Saunders is drinking tea and nibbling on a biscuit in what should be the living room of his flat in central London. But instead of a sofa and television, two large tables and a bulky gray P.C. dominate the room. Paper garments hang from the ceiling, dyed fabric is draped across the fireplace, and what looks like an inspiration collage covers one wall. After offering me a Hob Nob, Saunders sits down for what is probably the first time all day. The unshaven, dark-haired, Grimsby, Northern England-born designer looks like he’s had a rough night, and judging by the sketches strewn across the table, a busy morning. “This piece is actually for my mum’s birthday card,” he admits sheepishly. (I never would have guessed it wasn’t a preparatory work for his clothing line, David David.) Born in 1976, Saunders moved to London at the age of 19 to study at Chelsea College of Art. After graduation he worked at several galleries before assisting YBAs including Tracey Emin and Matt Collishaw on sculpture projects. Why move into fashion after a seemingly successful start in fine art? “I became more involved in the fashion scene and, after working for Detmar Blow at Modern Art Inc., I started to spend a bit of time with Isabella [Blow],” he says. “The thing that intrigued me most about the fashion world was that it seemed so much more glamorous than the art world and that became a really big challenge to try and break into.” Saunders began making and altering his own clothes to wear to parties, where he would constantly be asked who designed them. “It gradually went from being a hobby to becoming financially more beneficial to make clothes than it wasto make the art, and then it just started to expand really rapidly,” he says. His first collection for men and women is already selling out at its exclusive London stockist, Dover Street Market. Geometric patterns in bright, neon colorways are the predominant feature on traditional tailored pieces and modern sportswear—from poplin shirts and purple jumpsuits, to fine-knit sleeveless dresses and satin bomber jackets. His aesthetic screams London, is worn by Agyness Dean, M.I.A., and Samantha Morton, and fits seamlessly alongside fellow Brit designers Henry Holland, Gareth Pugh, and Louise Gray. So it’s no surprise he recently collaborated with Holland on a line of printed scarves. “What’s funny is that I’ve never really been a huge fashion guy,” he insists. “The reason I started working with geometric patterns was because I always found them quite vulgar within the art world. I never enjoyed abstract art and I was intrigued by how geometry is complemented really well by movement —it’s more amplified on clothing.” dress by david david.
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