NYLON - February 2009 - (Page 72) the insider: CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: STEMP AND HER TEAM SILKSCREENING; STEMP RELAXING IN HER STUDIO; A SPRING ’09 PRINT FROM BEN COPPERWHEAT. prints charming sue stemp makes pretty frocks even prettier with her enchanting graphics. by rajni lucienne jacques. photographed by peggy ann mcdonnell FOR SUE STEMP, designing her eponymous clothing line is like being in an arts-andcrafts class. “Making prints is so much fun,” says Stemp, giggling. She is sprawled out on a cream colored leather couch, stained with a streak of blue paint, in the New York City studio where she hand-screens all the fabrics in her collections. Pins are strewn across the hardwood floors, a pattern-cutting table sits in the middle of the room, and there are printing screens splattered with color all around. The creations are a collaboration between Stemp and textile designer Ben Copperwheat, a fellow Brit. From the vibrant-hued ink-splatter design from her fall ’08 collection to this season’s delicate floral graphic, you get the sense from these intricate patterns that Stemp—who loves playing with paint—likes to get her hands dirty while creating beautifully constructed pieces. She starts off by making a screen of the print, presses it onto fabric—immediately letting it dry for about 10 minutes—and then moves onto the next garment, trying not to smudge it. “There is only one downside to this whole process,” says Stemp. “The part where I have to clean up.” For spring, Stemp collaborated once again with Copperwheat, as well as freelance artdirector Deanne Cheuk, to create an “art chic” range of patterns. “It’s very organic,” Stemp says. “I usually give them a set of images that have influenced me, and they create from my direction.” For this particular collection, her mood boards were covered with photographs by David Hamilton, pictures from the American West, pieces of lace and Broderie Anglaise fabric, print-outs of John Singer Sargent paintings, and images of elegantly arranged flowers. From this ephemera, Copperwheat drew up oversize corsages in pinks and blacks, while Cheuk designed a soft watercolor floral called “blushing bushes.” The outcome, is an Edwardian-inspired collection that boasts floaty silk tops, flirty cocktail dresses, and exquisitely tailored tuxedo suiting. “I was interested in the restrictive, subtle sexiness of Edwardian dressing,” Stemp says. “I love the high, ruffled necks and pure seductiveness of it.” Even though she is influenced by everything from art to everyday life, it’s clear that Stemp has a distinct vision when it comes to her designs. “Regardless of how random my inspirations might be, I create for a woman who is free-spirited but also has a strong sense of style,” she says glancing at her board. “When I get my ideas together, I never know whether it’s gonna go that way or this way, or even what my prints will look like, but that’s the exciting bit.” And with It Girls including Kate Moss and Daisy Lowe sporting her creations, it’s obvious that she’s going in the right direction. “Being able to enjoy the whole experience of wearing what I’ve created is great,” says Stemp. “And seeing someone else wearing it is one of the best parts about being a designer.” photo courtesy of mark squires. campaign 072
For optimal viewing of this digital publication, please enable JavaScript and then refresh the page. If you would like to try to load the digital publication without using Flash Player detection, please click here.