O2 - Issue 2 - (Page 22)

[FLIGHT 02] FRUIT OF THE (FERTILIZER- AND INSECTICIDE-FREE) VINE Organic wines that make you go mmmm S ommeliers across Manhattan recommend thinking green as you tip back a glass of red or white: Organic wines are produced without most pesticides and are certified by the USDA and ATF. We asked these experts to select the best organic wines their restaurants offer. –Leigh Batnick [1] Richard Luftig, Cookshop Richard Luftig, wine director of Cookshop, favors the offerings of Domaine Bellivière, a vineyard tucked in the grooves of the Loire Valley. He pairs “flavorful, not-hot dishes and light white meats” with a 2005 Jasineries Les Rosiers, an off-dry white that features complementary honey, mead, and cooking-spice flavors. For a red, Luftig chooses Le Rouge Gorge, derived from the Pineau d’Aunis grape. “Hints of baby powder, agave, and red grapefruit make this an amazing little wine that’s light on the palate and pairs beautifully with everything from heavy, oily fish to a lighter meat like rabbit or quail.” Cookshop: 156 Tenth Avenue, 212.924.4440, www.cookshopny.com Domaine Bellivière Les Rosiers $55 Domaine Bellivière Le Rouge Gorge $45 [2] Ryan Armstrong, Pure Food and Wine Ryan Armstrong, general manager of Pure Food and Wine, touts his place of business as “organic and cruelty-free, but still trendy and sexy.” Nicholas Joly’s refreshing, crisp Chemin Blanc perfectly suits the restaurant’s combination of ethics and glam appeal, while Armstrong chooses a Francis Tannahill Syrah from Oregon for his red, noting, “It’s smooth, rich, and complex, which really picks up the chocolate flavors in our raw cocoa mole tamales.” Pure Food and Wine: 54 Irving Place, 212.477.1010, www.purefoodandwine.com Nicholas Joly Chemin Blanc $55 Francis Tannahill Syrah $57 Counter: 105 First Avenue, 212.982.5870, www.counternyc.com Albet I Noya Xarello $32 Backsberg Pinotage $30 [4] David Lombardo, Landmarc Landmarc wine and beverage director David Lombardo notes that Landmarc: 179 West Broadway, 212.343.3883, www.landmarc-restaurant.com Nicholas Joly Les Clos Sacrés $49 Quintessa $125 22 [ O2GREENMAGAZINE.COM ] PHOTOGRAPHY BY PABIS STUDIO/ISTOCKPHOTO [3] Deborah Gavito, Counter Deborah Gavito, all-natural baker-cum-vegetarian restaurateur, offered 50 Earth-friendly wines when she opened Counter four and a half years ago. That has since swelled to 250. From her abundance of whites, Gavito recommends a Xarello from Albet I Noya of Spain, “a wine made from the grape used for cava, which gives it a light spritz with accents of citrus and apple—a refreshing, exciting summer wine to pair with our vegatable paella served b’steeya style.” And while Backsberg Pinotage from South Africa is not organic, she prefers this red for its carbon-neutral and sustainable credentials, as well as its combination of ripe mulberry, sweet strawberry, and herbs. many customers seem not to equate wine with organic, but luckily the bistro offers many half bottles for those first tastes. His top white is Les Clos Sacrés by Nicholas Joly, “a pioneer in the world of organic and biodynamic” from the Loire Valley. “The natural minerality shines through. When the bottle is opened there’s a very clean smell and one’s mouth starts to salivate. This is a beautiful wine with a real sense of the region in the glass and is perfect with pork or fish.” For a red, Lombardo picks Quintessa from the Napa Valley, a blend of five Bordeaux grapes harvested from “an absolutely beautiful vineyard that produces one line. There’s a little bit of spice here: cinnamon, rosemary, blackberry. It’s very versatile and works with everything from steak to fish.” http://www.cookshopny.com http://www.purefoodandwine.com http://www.counternyc.com http://www.landmarc-restaurant.com http://O2GREENMAGAZINE.COM

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O2 - Issue 2

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