US Airways - April 2013 - (Page 58)
take two or three hotel guests on a personal tour of
his favorite bacari in his own boat, a tiny craft that
can navigate narrow canals inaccessible to water
taxis. Senigaglia enjoys tying up at the lively canalfront bacari in Rialto and Cannaregio.
There is no best bacaro in Venice, as most everyone has a favorite, and there is no best cicheti dish,
since the huge variety is the appeal. A small plate of
sweet baby shrimp drizzled with impossibly rich
olive oil and a squeeze of fresh lemon might hit the
spot when paired with a crisp glass of local pinot
grigio, while others might prefer tuna-stuffed toma-
toes and peppers with a glass of sparkling prosecco,
or a rich fried spinach and ricotta fritter with an
inky local valpolicella. You might try all of the
above in a single stroll along a canal, because for
visitors to Venice, bacaro after bacaro serving different cicheti makes for a true movable feast. Senigaglia notes, “While much in Venice has changed,
the cicheti and bacaro tradition is alive and well,
the food just as it used to be.”
Larry Olmsted is a contributing editor. When he’s
not on the road writing, he resides in rural Vermont.
Top Spots for Cicheti by Neighborhood
Cicheti and
ombra at
Cantine del
Vino Gia
Schiavi and
(right) wine
on tap at
Cantina
Do Mori
58
april 2013
San Marco: Trattoria da
Fiore (3461 calle de le Botteghe) has a great location
and atmosphere, with a passthrough open front window
and seats inside and out, close
to St. Mark’s Square since 1871.
Try fried calamari, polpette,
potato and fish croquettes,
and grilled sliced eggplant.
Enoteca al Volto (4081 calle
cavalli) sits on a quiet alley
with several outdoor tables
and more than 20 wines by the
glass. Try tuna polpette, fried
zucchini flowers stuffed with
gorgonzola, and small plates
of risotto. la Chic..chetteria
(Westin Europa & regina,
usairwaysmag.com
Grand canal) is the only cicheti
bar in a first-class hotel, offering upscale takes on the
classics in an accessible and
glamorous setting.
San Polo (rialTo):
Cantina Do Mori (429 San
Polo), near the rialto Bridge,
is probably the most famous
bacaro in Venice. its long bar
is covered with glass cases
bursting with varied cicheti.
Try baby octopus, tramezzini sandwiches, shrimp salad,
prosciutto on melon, and much
more. at ancora (campo di
San Giacometto), open late
and very modern, try polpette,
assorted cicheti on bread, and
oysters shucked to order.
cannarEGio: Ca’ d’Oro
(3912 Sestiere cannaregio) is
an old-school classic at the end
of a narrow alley crowded with
patrons, serving tiny glasses of
house wines. Try plates of tiny
boiled shrimp with olive oil,
stuffed tomatoes, and assorted
seafood bites. al Timon (Fondamenta ormesini) has a great
canal setting with a broad pedestrian promenade, outdoor
tables, and an old boat tied up
for extra seating. Try assorted
platters of sliced bread topped
with porchetta, prosciutto with
crispy pickle, chopped liver
spread, and more. El Sbarlefo
(Salizzada del Pistor) offers
a slightly modern take on the
bacaro with light jazz and a
streamlined interior. Try ricotta
and spinach fritters, tunastuffed peppers, mini-wheels
of goat cheese in olive oil, and
salumi and cheese platters.
DorSoDuro: Cantine del
Vino Gia Schiavi (992 Fondamenta nani) is a full-service
wine store that also serves
cicheti, right on a canal where
patrons eat on the waterside
railing. Try mozzarella rolled
with asparagus and sliced
bread topped with speck
(ham), fig, cuttlefish, boiled
egg, or smoked fish.
Splurge: Venice’s most famous hotel, the cipriani, is also
one of its most expensive, a
luxury orient-Express property
and favorite of George clooney,
Daniel craig, and many other
stars thanks to its private location on an island across from
St. Mark’s Square, served by its
own private boats. if you can
foot the bill, there is no better
cicheti crawl than the private
escorted tour led by the hotel’s
roberto Senigaglia, with advance booking required.
http://www.usairwaysmag.com
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of US Airways - April 2013
US Airways - April 2013
Table of Contents
CEO Letter
From the Editor
Did You Know?
Making It Happen
Hot Spots: Best Ballpark Food
Hub Crawl: San Francisco International Airport
Wine & Dine: 20 Wines Under $20
Wine & Dine: True Brew: Puerto Rico Coffee
Great Tastes: Luna Red
Great Escapes: Couples Resorts
Adventure: Cape Ann, Massachusetts
Great Escapes: Fairmont San Francisco Hotel
Adventure: High Springs, Florida
Gear Up: Golf
Special Section: Cabarrus County, North Carolina
Travel Feature: Grazing in Venice, Italy
US Airways Feature: 50+ Year Employees
No Strings Attached: Brad Paisley
The Rise of Hotel Restaurants
Phoenix Flair
Celebrate New Orleans: Art. Culture. Music.
Great Dates
Puzzles
Readers Resource Index
Your US Airways Guide
Video Entertainment
Audio Entertainment
U.S. and Caribbean Service Map
International Service Map
Airport Terminal Maps
US Airways Fleet/Customs & Immigration
Passenger Info/Contact US Airways
US Airways MarketPlace®
Window or Aisle?
US Airways - April 2013
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