US Airways - April 2013 - (Page 58)

take two or three hotel guests on a personal tour of his favorite bacari in his own boat, a tiny craft that can navigate narrow canals inaccessible to water taxis. Senigaglia enjoys tying up at the lively canalfront bacari in Rialto and Cannaregio. There is no best bacaro in Venice, as most everyone has a favorite, and there is no best cicheti dish, since the huge variety is the appeal. A small plate of sweet baby shrimp drizzled with impossibly rich olive oil and a squeeze of fresh lemon might hit the spot when paired with a crisp glass of local pinot grigio, while others might prefer tuna-stuffed toma- toes and peppers with a glass of sparkling prosecco, or a rich fried spinach and ricotta fritter with an inky local valpolicella. You might try all of the above in a single stroll along a canal, because for visitors to Venice, bacaro after bacaro serving different cicheti makes for a true movable feast. Senigaglia notes, “While much in Venice has changed, the cicheti and bacaro tradition is alive and well, the food just as it used to be.” Larry Olmsted is a contributing editor. When he’s not on the road writing, he resides in rural Vermont. Top Spots for Cicheti by Neighborhood Cicheti and ombra at Cantine del Vino Gia Schiavi and (right) wine on tap at Cantina Do Mori 58 april 2013 San Marco: Trattoria da Fiore (3461 calle de le Botteghe) has a great location and atmosphere, with a passthrough open front window and seats inside and out, close to St. Mark’s Square since 1871. Try fried calamari, polpette, potato and fish croquettes, and grilled sliced eggplant. Enoteca al Volto (4081 calle cavalli) sits on a quiet alley with several outdoor tables and more than 20 wines by the glass. Try tuna polpette, fried zucchini flowers stuffed with gorgonzola, and small plates of risotto. la Chic..chetteria (Westin Europa & regina, usairwaysmag.com Grand canal) is the only cicheti bar in a first-class hotel, offering upscale takes on the classics in an accessible and glamorous setting. San Polo (rialTo): Cantina Do Mori (429 San Polo), near the rialto Bridge, is probably the most famous bacaro in Venice. its long bar is covered with glass cases bursting with varied cicheti. Try baby octopus, tramezzini sandwiches, shrimp salad, prosciutto on melon, and much more. at ancora (campo di San Giacometto), open late and very modern, try polpette, assorted cicheti on bread, and oysters shucked to order. cannarEGio: Ca’ d’Oro (3912 Sestiere cannaregio) is an old-school classic at the end of a narrow alley crowded with patrons, serving tiny glasses of house wines. Try plates of tiny boiled shrimp with olive oil, stuffed tomatoes, and assorted seafood bites. al Timon (Fondamenta ormesini) has a great canal setting with a broad pedestrian promenade, outdoor tables, and an old boat tied up for extra seating. Try assorted platters of sliced bread topped with porchetta, prosciutto with crispy pickle, chopped liver spread, and more. El Sbarlefo (Salizzada del Pistor) offers a slightly modern take on the bacaro with light jazz and a streamlined interior. Try ricotta and spinach fritters, tunastuffed peppers, mini-wheels of goat cheese in olive oil, and salumi and cheese platters. DorSoDuro: Cantine del Vino Gia Schiavi (992 Fondamenta nani) is a full-service wine store that also serves cicheti, right on a canal where patrons eat on the waterside railing. Try mozzarella rolled with asparagus and sliced bread topped with speck (ham), fig, cuttlefish, boiled egg, or smoked fish. Splurge: Venice’s most famous hotel, the cipriani, is also one of its most expensive, a luxury orient-Express property and favorite of George clooney, Daniel craig, and many other stars thanks to its private location on an island across from St. Mark’s Square, served by its own private boats. if you can foot the bill, there is no better cicheti crawl than the private escorted tour led by the hotel’s roberto Senigaglia, with advance booking required. http://www.usairwaysmag.com

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of US Airways - April 2013

US Airways - April 2013
Table of Contents
CEO Letter
From the Editor
Did You Know?
Making It Happen
Hot Spots: Best Ballpark Food
Hub Crawl: San Francisco International Airport
Wine & Dine: 20 Wines Under $20
Wine & Dine: True Brew: Puerto Rico Coffee
Great Tastes: Luna Red
Great Escapes: Couples Resorts
Adventure: Cape Ann, Massachusetts
Great Escapes: Fairmont San Francisco Hotel
Adventure: High Springs, Florida
Gear Up: Golf
Special Section: Cabarrus County, North Carolina
Travel Feature: Grazing in Venice, Italy
US Airways Feature: 50+ Year Employees
No Strings Attached: Brad Paisley
The Rise of Hotel Restaurants
Phoenix Flair
Celebrate New Orleans: Art. Culture. Music.
Great Dates
Puzzles
Readers Resource Index
Your US Airways Guide
Video Entertainment
Audio Entertainment
U.S. and Caribbean Service Map
International Service Map
Airport Terminal Maps
US Airways Fleet/Customs & Immigration
Passenger Info/Contact US Airways
US Airways MarketPlace®
Window or Aisle?

US Airways - April 2013