US Airways - July 2013 - (Page 26)
Wine & Dine
inherently good nor bad; rather they
are just one of many components of a
fine brew.
The emphasis on hops today reminds me of the way many California
winemakers played with oak in the
IN THE LAST FEW
YEARS WE’VE SEEN
DOUBLE IPAS, TRIPLE
IPAS, AND EVERY
OTHER RIFF ON
HOPPY BEER STYLES.
—JT Thompson
Smuttynose Brewery
1980s and ’90s. Oak aging of
wine, like hops in beer, when
used judiciously, can enhance
the final product. But when
used in excess to mask inferior
wine, or inferior beer, you
wind up with thin, watery,
oaky wine, or thin, watery,
hoppy beer. Neither is what
I want to drink.
Because hops are the
trend du jour, every brewer is
climbing on the bandwagon,
and not all their efforts are
successful.
The secret here is balance.
What I look for in a beer is that
wonderful fresh, citrusy, almost floral
aroma that hops bring, and just
enough bitterness to complement
a foundation of rich, nutty malt.
But then there are hopheads, like
Julia Herz. “A lot of beer lovers proudly
call themselves hopheads, me being
one of them,” she says. “I don’t demand
ultimate balance. Sometimes I am truly
pleased when I get something that’s
aggressively bitter but still has the essence of malt in the background. I don’t
have to have it fully in harmony.”
Nick Passmore is a contributing editor.
His website is nickonwine.com.
WHAT ARE HOPS, AND WHY?
26
JULY 2013
usairwaysmag.com
a refreshing balance to
the sweetness of
the malt. From
that point on,
most beer
contained
some hops.
Fastforward to
the 18th century,
when Britain was
expanding its
presence in India.
The thirsty Brits were disappointed
to find that their beloved pale ale
arriving from home had spoiled
during the long sea voyage. So
brewers in England responded by
crafting beers with more hops to help
preserve the brew — hence the birth
of the hoppier India Pale Ale.
Despite some heavy-handed
brewing trends, I find a number of
these hoppy beers quite satisfying.
Here are a few.
Flying Dog Old Scratch
Amber Lager
Round and malty with subtle
notes of chocolate and hazelnuts.
Full Sail Original
Amber Ale
Rich and dry with
a lingering tang on
the long finish.
Breckenridge
Brewery
Lucky U IPA
Bright and fresh
on the front palate
with the floral hoppiness nicely balanced
by the sweet, round
malt.
Lagunitas
Censored
Rich
Copper
Ale
“Rich” is an apt descriptor
for this creamy, fullflavored, deeply
satisfying ale.
Dogfish Head 90
Minute Imperial IPA
A decadent caramel
richness is followed
by an impossibly long,
hop-filled finish.
Brooklyn Brewery
East India Pale Ale
A mellow blend of rich
malt and a lingering,
punchy hoppiness.
Sierra Nevada Torpedo Extra IPA
The hop torpedo is a
dry-hopping device that
controls how much hop
aroma is imparted into
beer without adding bitterness. Sounds strange,
but the finished product
is super.
Great Divide
Brewing Co.
Hercules
Double IPA
An appropriate name
for this huge, and
hugely powerful,
muscular brew.
Tröegs
Perpetual IPA
Light, fresh, and
singing with a fruity
effervescence.
HOPS PHOTO BY GROS, PETR/STOCKFOOD MUNICH
The hop plant is a floral
vine closely related to
cannabis — hence
the 1950s term
hophead. The
meaning has
evolved, and
now hophead
refers not to
a smoker
of weed, but to an
aficionado of aggressively hopped beer.
From the early days of
agriculture until around 800
AD, hopless beer was a sweet,
syrupy concoction prone to spoilage. Then an enterprising brewer
discovered that hops added during
the brewing process not only acted
as a preservative, but also provided
Hoppy but Happy
http://www.nickonwine.com
http://www.usairwaysmag.com
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of US Airways - July 2013
US Airways - July 2013
Table of Contents
CEO Letter
From the Editor
Did You Know?
Making It Happen
Hot Spots: Family-Friendly Vacations
Wine & Dine: The Other Portland
Great Tastes: Benjamin Steakhouse
Wine & Dine: A Crafty Measure
Diversions: Fresh as You Please
Great Tastes: Savor
Great Escapes: Now Resorts & Spas
Adventure: Climbing Mt. Rainier
Travel Feature: Grand Cayman, the Epicure's Island
US Airways: Top Dogs
Special Section: Northwest Arkansas
Golf: Primland, a Course Apart
Special Section: North Carolina High Country
Puzzles
Readers Resource Index
Your US Airways Guide
Video Entertainment
Audio Entertainment
U.S. and Caribbean Service Map
International Service Map
Airport Terminal Maps
US Airways Fleet/Customs & Immigration
Passenger Info/Contact US Airways
US Airways MarketPlace®
Window or Aisle?
US Airways - July 2013
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