US Airways - July 2014 - (Page 39)

Rincon Surf School, Hawaii PHOTOS (FROM LEFT) COURTESY OF MUKUL RESORT AND BY MATHEW MILONE Gemma for three days of two-hour morning sessions (the best conditions are at low and high tide), we quickly found out why surfing is profoundly addictive. Gemma started us off on the sand, showing us how to paddle to match our speed with that of the wave. If you're too slow it passes under you uneventfully; if you're too fast it can break on top of you. Still on dry land, Gemma also showed us how to scoot our arms and weight back as soon as our paddling got the board onto a wave. The position is similar to yoga's upward dog and helps prevent the board from nose-diving into the water. Most of my friends who have struggled learning to surf immediately went into the water and tried to stand, but Gemma took a more patient two-tiered approach. First, we headed out and practiced our sand drills, paddling and riding waves on our stomachs, while getting the balance and feel of the board on the water. After about 20 minutes and half a dozen rides, she brought us back to the beach for step two: how to go from our stomachs to our feet. As the wave starts to carry the board, one leg is bent with the sole of the foot up near the other knee, so that from above the legs the would-be surfer resembles a pointy letter "p." Next, the foot of the bent leg is planted and transformed into a lunge position. The key, I quickly discovered, is getting my feet in proper alignment and centered before standing. Instinct screams "rush!" but standing with my feet out of position proved foolish, sending me catapulting forward, backward, or off either side. Like a good golf swing, there are lots of discrete parts to integrate into a single flowing movement, a sum greater than the individual steps - except surfing comes together quicker. Ten or 20 years after most people learn to play golf, they continue to struggle with basic swing elements. In skiing, it's possible for a novice to tackle beginner trails by the end of day one. But surfing offers nearly instant EVEN THE MOST FAMOUS SURF SPOTS LIKE HAWAII AND BALI HAVE A SEASON, BUT HERE IT'S YEAR-ROUND, AND THAT'S - Gemma Yates, Instructor, TropicSurf RARE. gratification. We were standing and riding waves in less than an hour. At first everything seemed impossibly fast. Standing chest deep, facing the shore and looking over my shoulder, the set of waves seemed too close together - by the time I regained my balance after one passed overhead, the next was on top of me, while my mind screamed Gemma's instructions: Get on, get centered, toes hooked over the back, paddle, three fast strokes, hands back, knee bent, lunge, crouch, feet centered, knees in, stand, hands out. The first several efforts ended with wild dismounts halfway through this string of thoughts, my body cartwheeling in every direction. Then it happened: I successfully stood and kept my balance, and it clicked. My confidence soared, and my expectation changed from trying to stand, to planning on it. Time itself slowed down, and the waves seemed much farther apart. Getting on the board and in position became leisurely, everything unfolding in slow motion. Though a successful ride might last 10-15 seconds, it feels much longer. And in these moments, there is a full sense of clarity. I strongly suspect that's why so many surfers are devoted to the sport. ***** At the end of our first two hours and several successful rides, we were exhausted. On day two, we added steering and speed control, all done by moving our feet and weight left, right, forward, and aft of the centered position. Day three focused on reading the waves, learning when and where each wave would crest, and better timing our paddling to maximize each ride. The next big step was sideways. Beginners usually ride straight into the beach, but once you can routinely stand, steer, and move your feet around on the board, you can start riding along waves, which offers more potential for movement and a more intense journey. Day four, had we had it, would have involved a short boat ride to big, breaking waves. It might take months or even a year, but I'll be back for day four. Larry Olmsted is a contributing editor to this magazine. To read about his sporting adventures, go to larryolmsted.com. usairwaysmag.com JULY 2014 39 http://www.larryolmsted.com http://www.usairwaysmag.com

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of US Airways - July 2014

Table of Contents
Perspective: CEO Letter
From the Editor
Making It Happen?
Hot Spots: Best Wellness Retreats
Great Escapes: Sea Pines Resort, South Carolina
Great Escapes: Barceló Hotels and Resorts
Wine & Dine: Edible Spirits
Style Spotlight: Patriotic Pride
Gear Up: Summer Play
Getaway: Sugar Mountain, North Carolina
Adventure: Surf School
Connections: Everybody's Business
Travel Feature: Athens, Greece
Florida Panhandle Shipwreck Trail
Chefs Tell
Down to Business
Special Section: Vibrant San Diego
To Your Health: Joint Revitalization
Special Section: North Carolina's High Country
Best of Health: Miami Foot & Ankle Surgery
Puzzles
Readers Resource Index
Your US Airways Guide
Audio Entertainment
Video Entertainment
U.S. and Caribbean Service Map
International Service Map
Airport Terminal Maps
oneworld alliance
Passenger Info/Contact US Airways
US Airways MarketPlace®
US Airways Fleet/Customs & Immigration
Window or Aisle?

US Airways - July 2014