Greenville Magazine - April 2008 - (Page 70) after hours Hummus is a creamy chickpea spread with balanced flavors of sesame tahini, lemon and garlic. Exotic and excellent is kashk bademjan, eggplant and onion sauteed and blended, topped with crisp fried onion shreds and a swish of Persian cream of whey. Salads are diced cucumbers, tomatoes and onions with parsley and a house salad of fresh, crisp lettuces, tomato and onion; both have a light, refreshing citrus dressing. Just as yogurt is central to many first courses in Persian cuisine, basmati rice with saffron is fundamental to main dishes. Pomegranate follows the tradition of multiple rinsings to minimize starchiness, and the long grains have a slight crunch, each scoop of white rice surrounded by a golden circle scented with saffron. For variety, Pomegranate offers four styles, some preselected to complement a particular main dish, others left to the diner’s preference. Unique is barberry rice with tiny tangy red fruit imported from Iran, enhancing the color and texture as well as the flavor. Other approaches are lentil-raisin and dill with lima beans, the latter strongly colored and flavored with that distinctive green herb. Dinner choices are diverse, including a vegetarian kabob. All beef dishes are kabobs, some marinated in saffron and onion or pomegranate sauce, others charbroiled with vegetables. To make eating easier, kabobs arrive de-skewered, their shape still apparent on the plate but without sharp edges. Soltani kabob includes one koobideh (ground chuck) and one barg (tenderloin strips). Both were flavorful; however, the tenderloin was disappointingly chewy. In contrast, the chuck was juicy and lightly spiced. Lamb comes as a slow-cooked shank, a kabob marinated in a mint yogurt sauce or a rack. We were delighted with the five lean, small chops of the rack, lightly scented with rosemary, tender and flavorful, though cooked more well done than we prefer (we were not asked how we’d like any of the meats cooked). Especially pleasing were the salmon filet and Cornish hen, the former a sizeable portion lightly browned on the outside to bring out the flavors of the saffrononion marinade, and the latter a sweet and tender whole little hen cut into pieces and skewered for grilling. Other dinner options (lunch listings are similar) include chicken breast, lamb, shrimp or salmon kabobs and a couple of stews, one with eggplant and veal in a tomato sauce, the other a chicken breast tenderized by slow cooking and glamorized by a pomegranate-walnut pomegranate on Main D. b. L a ro u s s e p h o t o b y pat r i c k co L L a r D st u D i o s by ubtle touches of Persian culture combine with up-to-date amenities for a memorable meal at one of Greenville’s newest restaurants, Pomegranate on Main. Inside, simple, sophisticated settings prevail. On the bar is a steel sculpture of pomegranates, some open to reveal their seeds in silver instead of the “real” red of this lovely fruit, and on one wall a painting of frosty white-blue hues with splashes of red continues the pomegranate motif. Fragrance is an essential element of taste, and Pomegranate celebrates these senses with saffron, citrus, lime, mint and other flavors from ancient Persia. Patrons are greeted with a conical basket of freshly baked flatbread. Butter comes with a square of feta cheese and a garnish of mint and radish, awakening the senses with colors and fragrances. A small bowl of powdered sumac with a tiny spoon invites sprinkling on bread or other foods to add a slightly tart tingle. Our foursome tried most of the appetizers, all wonderful as a starter or as a meatless meal. A mainstay of many Middle Eastern kitchens, yogurt is featured: mast khiyar mixes in diced cucumbers and raisins, sprinkled with walnuts; mast mousir blends minced garlic for a wonderful complement to main dishes (so save some for the next course); and borani spinach adds substantial sauteed spinach and onion with garlic. 70 Greenville MaGazine | april 2008 S
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