Greenville Magazine - July 2008 - (Page 54)

after hour s Latitude BY D.B. LAROUSSE I PHOTO BY ASHLEY FULMER whimsical sculpture of a woman with attitude peers out the front window of Latitude, inviting passers-by to stop and have a look – and stay for lunch or dinner. Inside this casual fine dining restaurant, a foyer with a few lounge tables and a long bar with comfortably-backed stools leads to a two-level dining room with a view of the partially-open kitchen where Chef Don Hiers and his staff quietly cook contemporary American dishes informed by classical culinary techniques. A few steps away from the Warehouse Theater in Greenville’s West End and a few blocks from the Peace Center, Latitude was opened in 1999 by Hiers and Steve Moore. Their concept has staying power, as if they foresaw the regeneration of the West End. One of Latitude’s many charms is the warm welcome from a host who circulates among the tables during the evening. Another is the selectivity of the menu, presented with simple dignity on a single sheet of textured card stock and augmented by several specials recited by servers in black shirts and trousers. A compact wine list on similar paper is organized by characteristic flavors to help diners match wines with 54 GreenviLLe MaGazine | JULY 2008 A their meals, emphasizing but not limiting the selection to California vintages and including a reasonable array by the glass. While diners peruse the menu, a crusty roll is delivered to each side plate along with a crock of sundried tomato spread with a dash of color and spice. If you prefer plain butter, the request is filled promptly. The restaurant’s “latitude” with regional cuisine is apparent in the first course, where north meets south in a tasty variation on fried green tomatoes, here crisply coated with bread crumbs, layered with Vermont cheddar that might have been better had it melted a bit more and lightly filmed with tangy-sweet balsamic vinegar; on the side a tiny scoop of excellent pesto made us wish for more. An evening special starter of shrimp, scallops, seaweed salad and a mini-wrap filled with chorizo sausage and cheese was served with a light white wine sauce. Each element was nicely prepared and the sea selections tasted fresh, in particular, the restaurant’s signature North Atlantic sea scallops, but the combination had too many competing flavors and textures. A simple salad of mixed greens was overpowered by a surprisingly heavy balsamic dressing, which, we were told, was fortified with egg: We would have liked to know about this addition in advance. Other starters were scallops with wilted spinach and a mustard sauce, attractively served at a nearby table, wilted spinach salad with warm peppered goat cheese and Portobello mushroom marinated in garlic and herbs. On the night of our visit, the soup du jour was creamy mushroom. The restaurant’s main courses feature some distinctive dishes. Creamy-buttery steak sauces like

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of Greenville Magazine - July 2008

Greenville Magazine - July 2008 Contents Editor's Letter My Greenville Alone At Last Watercooler Romance Greenwood Tourist in Your Own Town One-Tank Trips In The Lead Keeping Students In-State After Hours From the Pros A Look Back Walk this Way If These Walls Could Talk Viewpoints Attorneys The Bulletin Around Town Parting Words

Greenville Magazine - July 2008

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