Pennsylvania Game News - December 2010 - 11

flat gray or black, treats dozens of these fittings. Snares can also be dyed and waxed the same as traps, or dipped in one of several commercial coatings on the market designed to darken traps. Snares have to close fast to be effective, so after forming a 10-inch loop I take an 8-inch length of heavy wire and use pliers to pinch one end around the cable, just behind the snare lock, and then wrap the opposite end tightly around a wooden support stake. This gives me several inches of wire between the stake and the snare loop, which allows me to position the snare wherever I need it. When setting snares in open water, remember to keep two-thirds of the loop under water, because most of a beaver’s body is submerged while they are swimming. Travel channels created by beavers are great places for snares. Sometimes I’ll take an old log that is approximately two inches in diameter, and wedge it into the mud perpendicular to the channel, so that the beaver must duck under the log while swimming. I secure the snare loop just below the log, anchor it solidly, and I’m on my way in minutes. When using snares it’s best not to use bait or lure nearby. Movement through the noose is what triggers a snare. Bait and lure will cause the animal to slow down to investigate, which often results in only a partial closing of the snare loop, allowing the beaver to back out. The good news here is that you get a second (or third or fourth) chance to catch your critter, because snares almost never generate fear in beavers. Unfortunately, almost never just isn’t good enough when you’re attempting to eradicate beavers to eliminate damage to expensive trees or precious crops. There are times when you simply must remove every beaver in a colony to protect property. And that is why I’ve saved my favorite set for last. I haven’t talked much about foothold traps, so let me begin by saying they are far less likely to spook beavers than body-gripDECEMBER 2010

ping traps. Foothold traps close fast and hold hard, and they don’t make much noise when they’re grabbing a hind foot that’s submerged in deep water. This, coupled with a drowning rig that sends the beaver several feet under immediately after being caught, keeps other beavers from becoming wise to your sets. My favorite beaver set using foothold traps is simple to make and will quickly catch every beaver on your trapline, including old trap-shy beavers. Begin by cutting a fresh, green poplar branch three inches in diameter, and hammer it into the bank’s edge, close to the water, so it sticks straight up for at least a foot. Make sure the bait stick is secure, so a beaver can’t simply carry it off; you want it to gnaw on it for a while, because this is what makes the set so effective. Set two number four (check trapping regulations on jaw width) coilspring traps under 18 inches of water, about 12 inches apart, in front of the poplar and attach them to a well-concealed drowning wire. Old chisel tooth will swim to your poplar bait and start pulling on it, eventually dropping both hind feet to the bottom to get a firm grip on the bait. As it continues to work on the poplar, its hind feet will step about, eventually landing in one of your traps. Your drowning rig sends it to deeper water and leaves a nice, serene atmosphere for the next beaver that comes along. And if you use a separate drowning rig for each trap, you might just find two beavers waiting for you when you make your rounds the following day. Trapping shy beavers can be extremely challenging. However, I’ve managed to fool many a flat tail over the years with the methods I’ve just described. If you give them a try, I’m sure they’ll work for you, too.
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Pennsylvania Game News - December 2010

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