Pizza Today - August 2017 - 28

protein content. This type of flour
will feel more powdery regardless of
actual grain size because it contains
less of the course husk. There are type
00 flours with a wide range of protein
levels for different applications. Usually protein content is the first thing
that pizza makers look for in selecting
a flour. Consider fermentation time
when selecting flour. Longer fermentation will usually require higher protein.

flour is also higher in beta-carotene
and its use will contribute to a more
flavorful finished crust. Semolina
can be substituted for as much as 40
percent of your total flour amount. So
if you typically use 50 pounds of flour
you would reduce your regular flour
to 30 pounds and add in 20 pounds of
Semolina. I recommend that you start
your experiments less aggressively and
begin with 20 percent semolina.

In the past, most flour in America was highly regionalized - and

You may have to adjust your
hydration level when blending
flour as different types of flour
absorb water differently. Gener-

to this day even giant manufacturers
have products that are only available in
certain areas. It is also very important
to know that in some cases a flour sold
under the same name may be different
in some places. While in the old days
the primary choice of flour was largely
dictated by location, today's motivated
pizza makers are sourcing products
from all over the world in the quest
for authenticity or to create a unique
signature product. The true greats such

ally, high-protein flour requires more
water. But if you have decided to blend
in European flour you may find that a
slight reduction in hydration is called
for. Before deciding to blend flours,
speak to the manufacturers. If you are
simply blending to change protein
content there is most likely a flour that
is very close to what you are looking
for. On the other hand, you may be

"Don't be afraid to experiment, but
remember the golden rules of science."
as Tony Gemignani may stock six or
seven types of flour in order to produce
accurate renditions of various regional
pizzas and will often blend flour for
different results.
Blending of flour types is becoming
increasingly popular as pizza makers
continue their quest to make signature
dough that will set them apart from
the competition. In the past the most
common blending flour was semolina. Semolina is a coarse flour made
from hard durum wheat. It will add a
crunchy texture to your dough along
with a beautiful golden color. Most
importantly, semolina contains high
levels of beta-carotene - which will
contribute to aroma and add a delicate
sweetness to your dough. Unbleached
2 8 / P I Z Z AT O D AY. C O M / A U G U S T 2 0 1 7

blending in order to achieve specific
flavor and textural components (in
which case you must understand the
unique characteristics of the flours you
are combining).
Italian flour is known for what is
often described as "clean" flavors. This
is usually taken to mean a pronounced
flavor of pure wheat with no lingering aftertaste. On the other hand,
American flour is renowned for its
ability to trap carbon dioxide within
the webbing structure of the dough.
Recently many pizza makers have been
experimenting with a combination of
the two types, resulting in a combination of improved flavor and light, airy
crumb structure. An added benefit
of this combination is that you can

increase the length of fermentation
beyond what is typically advised for
European flour. When I blend Italian
flour with American flour I can usually
get best results at three-day cold fermentation. A blend of 50/50 American
and Italian flour would be a good starting point.
It is also common to experiment
with blending of whole wheat flour
with conventional pizza flour. This
is done because it is difficult to get
strength in a dough made from
100 percent whole wheat. I recently
worked with master pizza maker
Giulio Adriani and he presented an
amazing pizza dough that combined
two types of high protein flour along
with 30 percent organic whole wheat
flour. The result was a gorgeous, airy
dough with complex flavor and a crisp
but delicate texture.
Don't be afraid to experiment, but
remember the golden rules of science.
Document everything you do. Weigh
all ingredients. Track temperatures.
And never, ever change more than one
variable at a time. n
JOHN ARENA owns

Vegas.

Metro Pizza in Las
http://www.PIZZATODAY.COM
Pizza Today - August 2017

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