Luxury Travel Advisor - February 2008 - (Page 24) KYOTO’S RYOKANS Clients visiting Kyoto who want a more immersive experience into Japanese culture should consider spending a night or two at a traditional luxury Japanese ryokan, where guests dine on elaborate kaiseki meals featuring 12 small courses of local dishes and can, in some cases, soak—in privacy or with other guests—in onsens, mineral spring baths (it should be noted that this often is done in the nude). At ryokans, guests have the opportunity to encounter what the Japanese prize most: the beauty of nature, the appreciation of exquisitely prepared meals and attentive, caring service. “A traveler should be ready for an experience unlike any they have ever SANGA RYOKAN, in Kurakowa, is had before,” says Jeff Aasgaard, near many of the town’s onsens, who seven years ago created or Japanese hot springs. Photo by Ethan Vogt JapaneseGuestHouses.com, a service that allows travelers to browse and book ryokans all over Japan. He explained that ryokans originated more than 600 years ago and were mainly used by weary traveling warlords and samurai. Showing off was frowned upon; good taste was determined by the quality of materials and ingredients, and by reverence to nature and simplicity. Famous luxury ryokans in the Kyoto area include Hiiragiya, Sumiya and Tawaraya, which is a favorite of Keanu Reeves and Steven Spielberg. We stayed at Sanga, a splendid and serene property in Kurakowa, a small town known for its onsens (Japanese hot springs) near Mt. Aso, an active volcano in southern Japan. There, we were encouraged to visit the onsens at a half-dozen lovely properties, taking breaks at tea and cake shops in town. Be advised: Ryokans are not every traveler’s dream destination—the rooms are only minimally decorated, guests have no other choice but to sleep upon futon mattresses placed on tatami mats on the floor, and modern conveniences often are unavailable. Also, beyond requesting vegetarian options, guests will have no dining choices outside the set meal. “Most of the food will be unfamiliar,” warns Aasgaard, “but it will be presented beautifully.” Clients attracted to opulence and abundance may be disappointed, or bored, with the ryokans’ reverence for simplicity and tradition. Also, depending on the ryokan, English is not always spoken widely or particularly well. But for intrepid clients who are curious about Japanese culture and want a serene adventure full of refined pleasures, ryokans deliver what no Western hotel can. To browse and book ryokans, visit www.luxuryryokan.com or www.japaneseguesthouses.com, or consult with Charlie Spreckly (charlie@bespoketokyo.jp) of Bespoke Tokyo (www.bespoketokyo.jp; see “Local Connections,” page 74). ADVISOR INSIGHT: Marion Hager of Hager’s Journeys in Peoria, AZ has traveled to Kyoto, staying in the area’s many ryokans. “Two outstanding memories of Japan are our stay in a ryokan and the profusion of color during cherry blossom time in Kyoto,” she says. “To Japanese travelers, ryokans are more than accommodations. They bring together the best in food, service and traditional lifestyle and atmosphere,” Hager adds. “To us, the ryokan was a true cultural experience.” Of her ryokan experience, Hager says, “We sat on floor pillows at our low table, looking out on our private Japanese garden, complete with waterfalls. The maid served a multi-course Japanese dinner of local specialties. We didn’t want to miss the 1,000-year-old ritual of the Japanese bath, so, after dinner, we went separately to the ryokan’s communal bath, which had different hours for men and women. At bedtime, our room was transformed into a bedroom, with futon mattresses spread out on the tatami floor. The beds were comfortable, the sound of the running water from the garden relaxing, and we felt the true essence of Japan.” According to Hager, there are several ryokans adjacent to the area known as Philosopher’s Walk in Kyoto. “If you are lucky enough to be there during April, when the cherry blossoms burst forth in full color, it is an experience of a lifetime,” she says. 24 LUXURY TRAVEL ADVISOR | February 2008 http://JapaneseGuestHouses.com http://www.luxuryryokan.com http://www.japaneseguesthouses.com http://www.bespoketokyo.jp
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