Rural Missouri - February 2014 - (Page 19)
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Unique dining destination combines
a deli, meat market and bistro
Others were created just for JnL2
by a close friend. The Dutchmen -
a nod to the local high-school mascot - is a combination of turkey,
uests who visit the JnL2
roast beef, ham and salami with
Market in Owensville are
Swiss cheese and yellow mustard.
The Lower East Side is sliced paswhen they walk through
trami with Swiss cheese and horsethe door for the ﬁrst time. "Is this a
radish sour cream on marble rye.
grocery, a meat market, a deli or a
Then there's the Butcher Block,
restaurant?" they might ask.
JnL2's signature sandwich. Some
To this, Larry Lonigro simply
photo by Jason Jenkins
will struggle to open wide enough
to eat this massive sandwich creThe eatery established ﬁve years
From left, Luke, Larry and Joe Lonigro prepare to enjoy three favorites from their JnL2
ated in answer to Larry's demand
ago in what was once a garage is
bistro in Owensville - King Philly Cheese, Butcher Block and Firework sandwiches.
that customers get a lot for their
all of these things and a most woning," a blend of equal parts salt, pepgreat aroma."
money. It's piled high with smoked
derful place to eat. Here Larry, his
per and garlic powder.
Another thing that sets JnL2 apart
turkey, ham, salami,
brother, Joe, and son,
There are 10 salads for those dinfrom the competition is the fresh
roast beef, sharp chedLuke, offer a unique
ing on the lighter side. The most
ingredients. With a meat market so
dar cheese, lettuce,
concept in dining.
popular is the Caesar, which features
close at hand, beef for the 10 signatomato, onion and
"We wanted to build
a homemade dressing from Larry's
ture steak burgers is ground only as
a place where if you
To watch a video featuring House Herb mayonmother-in-law.
needed. Try the Firework Burger, a
wanted something to
JnL2 in Owensville, click this naise. Topping all of
With so many family members
favorite topped with pepper jack and
this is JnL2's bacon.
eat, come in here and
button inside our
involved in the business, it's not surcheddar cheeses, bacon and fried
"It's smoked, it's very
we can ﬁx it for you.
digital edition, online at
prising that a welcoming atmosphere
jalapeño and onion straws.
thick sliced," Larry says
You can buy what you
greets guests. Locals dressed in farm
Corned beef for the Reuben sandof the popular bacon.
need to ﬁx it yourself.
clothes mingle with businessmen in
wiches is cooked in the kitchen,
"There's only 11 slices to a pound,
Or, we have it hot and ready to go
suits, and it's not uncommon for the
not bought ready to go. Pulled pork
so that tells you a lot right there. We
for you," Larry says.
conversation between tables to be
and brisket is smoked on the grill
use it exclusively in our kitchen for
A small stock of staple items such
outside. Steak sandwiches are made
anything that has bacon on it."
as sauces, salad ﬁxings and fruit
The extensive menu - which
with meat cut from tender rib-eye,
One constant is the fresh-baked
are crowded into one corner of the
includes platter selections such as
porterhouse or New York strip steaks.
bread. "That was one of our original
100-plus-year-old structure. Center
fried chicken, catﬁsh, pork chops
Then there's the steaks, for which
ideas," Larry says. "Whatever came
stage is a row of gleaming showcases
and steak tacos for those who want
the bistro is famous. Only USDA
out of our kitchen was going to get
with the ﬁnest meats you're likely to
more than a sandwich - caters to
Grade Choice steaks are served, and
served with bread that we bake here.
see in a small town, including steaks
locals who eat here multiple times
they can be cut exactly the way the
"My wife does most of the bakand a dozen or so different types of
during the week or even the day.
customer wants them. All steaks are
ing. Whether it's cinnamon rolls,
bratwurst. Nearby is a rack of freshAnd while the menu is lengthy, the
seasoned with "Dynamite Seasoncookies or fresh bread, it creates a
baked goods, the source of a pleasLonigros will cook you any food
ant aroma that hints of homemade
found in the building.
breads, chocolate chip cookies and
Your order might even end up on
the menu, as it did for the Kohl famThere's a huge deli, with fried
ily, who once asked for an unusual
chicken and everything to go with
Specialties: Signature hot and cold
set of toppings on the bistro's thinit. Racks of made-in-Missouri wine
sandwiches and steak burgers, steaks and
crust, St. Louis-style pizza. Now othand beer round out the offerings.
St. Louis-style pizza.
ers can order The Kohl, a pizza made
Then you turn the corner and
with olive oil, chicken, spinach,
ﬁnd the family's vision of a bistro
Prices: Appetizers starting at $3; entrées
green peppers, onions, mushrooms,
ready for you. Those who choose to
from $5.50 to $10; steaks $15 to $27 and
olives and banana peppers.
dine in are presented with a menu
sandwiches starting at $6. Accepts checks,
Another unusual aspect of this
ﬁlled with amazing delights.
cash, major credit cards.
eatery is the wine. Customers can
As expected from a deli/bistro,
buy a bottle of Missouri wine, take it
sandwiches both cold and hot domito their tables, and bring the unﬁnnate the menu. There are 23 sandDetails: Open Monday through Thursday, 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.;
ished portion home with no corkage
wiches listed. But these aren't the
Friday and Saturday, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.; and Sunday, 9 a.m. to 3
fee or upcharge.
run-of-the-mill recipes you might
p.m. Seats 100. Full bar. No smoking. Private party space availIt's all part of a philosophy: "All
able. Reservations recommended on Friday and Saturday.
my life, I've only wanted to make
Some are traditional offerings
people happy," Larry says. "You've
such as the King Philly Cheese.
Address: 101 W. Lincoln Ave. (Highway 28) in Owensville.
got to see this to believe it because
JnL2 offers this in steak and pulled
it's very unique. The food is phechicken, with a provel cheese made
Contact: 573-437-5652; www.JnL2.com.
nomenal, and I mean that with all
on The Hill, St. Louis' Italian neighmy heart."
by Jim McCarty
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Rural Missouri - February 2014
Rural Missouri - February 2014
Ministering to motorists
A mid-winter read
Fighting more than fires
Out of the Way Eats
Metal & music
Hearth and Home
The Missouri Dinosaur
Rural Missouri - February 2014