MO - December 2008 - (Page 13) travel Windy & Wonderful Chicago Text and photos by Aefa Mulholland Stretched along 19 miles of shimmering coastline at the southwest edge of the Great Lakes region and sprawling westward into the Midwestern prairie heartland, Barack Obama’s hometown continues to surprise locals and visitors alike with a metropolitan safari of eye-popping architecture, internationally renowned museums, and a jumbled pastiche of fiercely territorial ethnic neighborhoods. The city that birthed the skyscraper is often referred to as a “living museum.” It boasts a collection of famed buildings by pioneers like Louis Sullivan, Daniel Burnham, and Frank Lloyd Wright, whose Prairie School homes and other buildings reflected the natural landscape. The skyline is dotted by icons like the Sears Tower and the John Hancock Building, not to mention recent additions by Rem Koolhaas and Frank Gehry. The museum scene is dominated by heavyweights, the Shedd Aquarium, the Museum of Science and Industry and the magnificent Art Institute of Chicago. Jazz and blues have deep and lasting roots in Chicago and many live music venues have been around for decades. The Chicago Symphony Orchestra is nationally renowned, while house music, which originated here, is an integral part of the club landscape. The Chicago League of Theaters lists nearly 170 companies in its registry, including the Goodman and Steppenwolf Theaters as well as The Second City and i.O. (formerly Improv Olympic), launching pads for many past and present cast members of Saturday Night Live. Chicago’s gay and lesbian population is large and highly visible. Lakeview, a.k.a. Boystown, one of two thriving gay neighborhoods in the city of Chicago, is located several miles north of the Loop in a triangle bounded by Belmont Avenue (3200 North), Halsted Street and Broadway, which intersects both streets on its northwest path through the city. On Halsted Street, you’ll find the highest concentration of queer activity. Lesbians began settling in the Swedish immigrant neighborhood of Andersonville in the late ’80s, and the last decade has seen a dramatic renovation of the entire area, which is now Chicago’s second gay neighborhood. Restaurants, hip boutiques and several bars are located along Clark Street between Foster Avenue and Bryn Mawr, but the attitude quotient here is sufficiently lower than in Boystown. STAY Most of the gay hotels are located close to the Boystown bar scene. The city’s premium hotels are in the heart of “The Loop,” and scattered along Michigan Avenue and throughout River North. Kimpton’s Hotel Allegro (171 W. Randolph St.; 312-236-0123; www.allegrochicago.com; $149+) is one of downtown’s hip addresses and rooms are well appointed in a whimsical yet sophisticated style. Three gay-popular boutique hotels are marketed as Neighborhood Inns of Chicago (www.cityinns.com). Rooms at all three are comparable, and all rates include concierge, honor baskets, luxury robes, data ports, complimentary morning newspaper, and a continental breakfast served in the hotel lobby. EAT Feast on Rick Bayless’ authentic, gourmet regional Mexican cuisine at Topolobampo and more casual sibling Frontera Grill (both at 445 N. Clark St; 312-661-1434; www.fronterakitchens.com; Frontera Grill $16-36). Both offer authentic, gourmet regional Mexican cuisine. Although the crowd is mostly straight, both places are a must-try for any visiting foodie. Chicago’s must-see Millennium Park and “The Bean” PLAY The two most popular bars in town are Sidetrack (3349 N. Halsted St.; 773-477-9189; www.sidetrackchicago.com) and Roscoe’s (3354 N. Halsted St.; 773-281-3355; www. roscoes.com), located across the street from each other and acting together as the main anchors of the scene. Sidetrack is a video bar specializing in theme nights (’70s & ’80s; show tunes; comedy night), and is busy most every night of the week. It’s by far the most popular gay bar in Chicago. Roscoe’s is the stomping ground for a wide-eyed and barely legal set of young gays who find themselves here soon after reaching their 21st birthdays. The bar is actually quite nice (think: neighborhood tavern atmosphere) with outdoor seating on the street and within a fenced-in area, a highenergy dance floor, regular drag shows and theme nights and a roaring fireplace for cozy encounters. Circuit (3641 N. Halsted St.; 773325-2233; www.circuitclub.com) is Boystown’s largest dance space. It offers 3-D glitter-effect flooring and a dance space even bigger than before and caters to a young dance crowd that includes muscle boys and Latinos. Women should head for Big Chicks (5024 N. Sheridan Rd.; 773-728-5511; www.bigchicks. com), a neighborhood bar that has become a welcome alternative for guys and girls looking for a good time outside Boystown. Owner Michelle Fire makes sure everyone is welcome with complimentary shots at midnight, an intimate dance floor energized by techno pop and an enclosed outdoor patio. Her free summer Sunday BBQs are legendary. GETTING THERE Alaska, American, United and U.S. Airways are among airlines that fly from SeaTac to Chicago. The flights take around four hours. Aefa Mulholland is Editor at Large of The Out Traveler. The Chicago River from the Chicago Architecture Foundation cruise moseattle.com 13 issue 22 | december 2008 http://www.sidetrackchicago.com http://www.roscoes.com http://www.roscoes.com http://www.allegrochicago.com http://www.circuitclub.com http://www.cityinns.com http://www.bigchicks.com http://www.bigchicks.com http://www.fronterakitchens.com http://www.fronterakitchens.com http://www.moseattle.com
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