SoCo Magazine - May 2008 - (Page 84) saloons to salons By James Holden | Photos by Lucki Schotz The Hill Never Disappoints, but Bring an Appetite, We’re Going to Mediterraneo! s pring is starting to warm up and now is the perfect time to take a quick ride and enjoy some of the finest dining to be found on the SouthCoast, which happens to extend into Rhode Island. My date and I decided that earlier was better so we made a 6:30 p.m. reservation at very well-known Mediterraneo, located on Providence’s Atwells Avenue, on the left side of the street just after you’ve passed the equally famous arches and pineapple that indicate you’ve found the Hill. Normally we would have used the valet, which is practically a requirement if you plan on eating at any one of the dozen or so restaurants on Atwells, but with a quick right turn and a ride down one block, we were able to find not just one but many spaces available on this particular evening. The weather has changed and my cocktail choices have, too, at least on this night. The drink menu made me realize how little it takes to create the desire to quench one’s thirst. The full-color photos of wonderfully refreshing cocktails on the first page of the menu were very enticing. This marketing effort’s effectiveness was demonstrated by my ordering a South Beach martini. It was fabulous. Not realizing that Mediterraneo served some very large small plates, or Assaggi (tastings), I decided to order two beautifully descriptive appetizers. The first was a hefty portion of Crostini con Portobello e Manzo. This translates into a piece of grilled Tuscan bread topped with grilled portobello mushrooms, accompanied by pan-seared tenderloin tips in a Madeira wine and fresh thyme cream sauce. It was full of flavor, tender, and it offered a respectable balance of mushrooms to tenderloin. This is a must order. Our second selection was the Melanzane della Mamma. This bubbling hot dish of sliced eggplant, lightly battered and pan fried, was topped with San Marzano plum tomato-basil sauce and homemade mozzarella. My God, I’m salivating while writing this. These two starters complemented each other very well; you won’t be disappointed if you decide on these selections. With not much room left, we decided on a pasta dish for a real taste of Italian red sauce. My company for the evening decided on Penne all’Arrabbiata, described as pen-shaped pasta in a hot and spicy San Marzano plum tomato sauce, sautéed in olive oil, hot pepperoncini, garlic, and parsley. There are not many options for plating this type of dish, but it easily stood on its own with a profoundly unique taste. After my sampling, I knew it would be even better the following day—at least half had to be brought home due to our filling small plates beforehand. Also brought to our table was a Cotoletta di Vitello alla Mediterraneo. This was truly and outrageously delicious. The large serving of tender veal cutlet, pan fired and crispy on the edges, was topped with homemade mozzarella and baked in the house red sauce. I overindulged and nearly finished the entire dish. If you like veal, you’ll love this! For dessert (yes, there is always room for dessert), we shared the Chocolate Lava Cake and the most delightful twist on chocolate mousse. The latter filled what looked like a stemless martini glass and was topped with a variety of fresh berries. This was a perfect finish to a wonderful meal. With all of the choices on Federal Hill, Mediterraneo is a good bet. It’s relaxed, the food is great, and the prices are reasonable. As a side note, it looked to me as if all the beautiful people eat there. When you visit, you’ll understand what I mean. Enjoy. O Mediterraneo is located at 134 Atwells Avenue, Providence, Rhode Island. Call 401-331-7760 for reservations (highly recommended). Mediterraneocaffe.com 84 | s o comagazi ne . i nfo | M ay 2 0 0 8 http://Mediterraneocaffe.com http://socomagazine.info
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