Modern Salon - January 2008 - (Page 68)

on trend my process FIRE & ICE There’s fire underneath every natural brunette, but that doesn’t mean you can’t add ice, too. That was the thinking of Dudley Products’ Artistic Director Micheline Barber, who used all the shades of a summer sunrise in the company’s latest collection, “Fire & Ice.” “Women of color are getting bolder, looking to enhance their skin tones and eye color with just the right hair color,” notes Barber. “For the updated, modified bob, it’s the color treatment that adds definition and makes the look unique for each individual.” Several stages of lightening act as inspiration when enhancing a natural brunette. (Hair by Micheline Barber.) CURLIGHTS Louis Viél, co-owner of Miano Viel Salon & Spa, New York, explains his method. This unique process is solely for women who love their natural curls. It solves the common complaint that even freshly done highlights can look outgrown on curly hair. When working on a “smoothed” head, you can apply color to the roots and correctly assess the density and texture. When selecting and placing Curlights, always personalize your approach, based on the client’s eye color, natural highlights, hair type, sense of style and how she normally wears her hair. 1. Depending on the tightness of the curl, either blow dry the hair or straighten it lightly, using a ceramic iron. 2. Access the hair’s texture and density to determine the thickness and placement of highlights. 3. Apply numerous tonal shades from the root to the tips. Place the highlights randomly, using zigzag patterns throughout the head. 4. Wash the hair and allow to air-dry back to its curly state, revealing perfectly curled highlights. CSI New York lead actress Melina Kanakaredes gets pale honey and rich cognac colors added to her natural dark brunette base, courtesy of her personal colorist, Louis Viél. Why stop with personalized color placement? A custom-cut fringe frames the brows to perfection. (Hair by Micheline Barber.) Extended layers add mobility, while semipermanent chocolate with a splash of red adds a hint of warmth. (Hair by April Toliver Wilkins.) color by numbers The best formulating tip ever Why do some color formulas fail? According to educator Tom Dispenza, who founded Chromastics and plies his trade at SoHo Salon in Manhattan, it’s all in the math—or rather, in your pigment-to-background ratio. “Red that doesn’t fade has a formula of two or three parts red to one part background,” explains Dispenza. “For mahogany on natural light brown, you need one ounce of 6RO or light titian, one ounce of 2RO or cherry and one ounce of a gold concentrate background color. Also, use 10-volume developer; you never need 20 volume when you are creating reds on light-colored hair.” Dispenza says with just 18 permanent shades, he can create any color in the world. An easy calculation that helps him do it: Background color dilutes pure tones at approximately one level per half-ounce. Strategically placed warmth personalizes the angled bob. (Hair by Deidre Clay.) (Photography by Dexter D. Cohen; make-up by Betty Mekonnen; production by Global Hair & Fashion Group, all for Dudley Products, Kernersville, North Carolina.) 68 JANUARY 2008 www.modernsalon.com http://www.modernsalon.com

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of Modern Salon - January 2008

Modern Salon - January 2008 Contents Behind the Cover Notebook Contributors @Modernsalon.com New-Now-Next Modern Portfolio Modern Reports Color and Texture News and Trends Ask Beth Your Makeovers Ask the Experts The Verdict Doing Hair Transformation on Trend Modern Update The Goods Personal Style

Modern Salon - January 2008

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