Modern Salon - January 2008 - (Page 70)

color q&a Ask Beth Q. Companies speak of “plantderived hair color” as the safer method of coloring hair. Just how much of these hair colors are plant-derived and how many have been found to be any safer to the clients? —Jessica Earhart, Rituals Salon-Spa, Midlothian, Virginia Can Color Be “Organic”? A. I have learned that in the next several years, a number of “organic” colors that are plant-derived will be available to salons. I understand that these colors will match or deepen color, will cover gray, but will not have a lightening action. Evidently hair will require a degree of prelightening if lift is needed. I have no other details, but I remain very interested and will let you know when I learn more. In the meantime, colorists should stay tuned and keep your ears to the ground. No matter what a product label claims, ask to see a list of ingredients. While it may be “natural” or contain “plant extracts,” it can still be as “chemical” as conventional products and still be inappropriate for use on sensitive clients. Years ago, wasn’t there a Clairol color—I believe it was called Loving Care—that could be used on clients with allergies to color? If not, do you know of another product? My client is allergic everything weve tried, including organic color. Is it the coal tar base that is the problem or the peroxide?—Cate Foster A. Loving Care was a nonperoxide color, but some people were sensitive to its other ingredients. Some people are allergic to coal tar; others to ammonia; others to MEA; others are sensitive to peroxide or to another ingredient in the product. Our approach is to wrap everything in foil and refrain from touching any coloring product to the scalp. Allergic reactions to color are potentially dangerous. I recommend you avoid suggesting color to people who say they are allergic. Protect yourself. I suggest you ask them to bring you a note from their doctor before attempting to color the hair. If you do decide to proceed, wrap everything in foil and refrain from touching any coloring product to the scalp. We had a young client with brown hair who got pink highlights for breast cancer awareness at another salon. Her hair was lightened, then “stained” with the pink. We have tried to remove the pink with two different lighteners and all we came up with was p inker highlights. What should we do?—Leslie Petersen Join Beth at Minardi Beauty Focus, Sunday, April 27, 2008, in New York City. She’ll be discussing all types of hair color products, as well has application and highlighting techniques. Go to www.minardieducation.com for more information. This should process to a more neutral lightest brown shade which will blend well with the client’s brown hair. Q. My salt-and-pepper client asked me to give her a smoky brown. Any formulating tips?—Leah Landis, Hair Color Authority, Springboro, Ohio A. We have requests all the time for this effect from clients who are graying. When a brunette client also has a percentage of gray, choose a formula one level lighter than the still-pigmented hair. I like to mix an NN with a blue-based ash shade and 20-volume developer and apply it to the root area only. While the roots are processing, we foilwrap sections in smoky brown lowlights. This cools and enriches the brown tone without making the hair look flat or too cool. For this purpose, I like to use an opaque demipermanent color like Wella Color Touch—the 5/1 mixed with 3/0 is very rich, cool and deep but not too “black.” Now you can own some of the best hair color information available! Call 800-MINARDI to order Beth Minardi’s TOP 20 COLOR FORMULAS—a sampling of Beth’s favorite salon-proven recipes. Included are corrective colors, great ideas for beautiful gray coverage and dramatic blondes, all for just $25.99. You don’t have to guess when you know the formula! Q. Q. A. Try this: mix equal parts Redken Shades 07G with 06N, using the Shades Processing Solution, apply it to the pink highlights and cover with a plastic cap. Allow this to process with heat for 20 minutes, then continue processing for an additional 10 minutes at room temperature before rinsing, shampooing and conditioning. Got a color challenge? Expert colorist and color educator Beth Minardi is available to answer all your questions on color application, formulation and results. Contact her via MODERN SALON, c/o Color Q&A, 400 Knightsbridge Parkway, Lincolnshire, IL, 60069, fax: 847-634-4342, or e-mail jalverio@modernsalon.com. 70 JANUARY 2008 www.modernsalon.com http://www.minardieducation.com http://www.modernsalon.com

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of Modern Salon - January 2008

Modern Salon - January 2008 Contents Behind the Cover Notebook Contributors @Modernsalon.com New-Now-Next Modern Portfolio Modern Reports Color and Texture News and Trends Ask Beth Your Makeovers Ask the Experts The Verdict Doing Hair Transformation on Trend Modern Update The Goods Personal Style

Modern Salon - January 2008

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